Everyone has recommended headers as part of my upgrade. I see ads for short and long types. What do you pros advise and is it a difficult job to perform? Can it be done with the engine in place?

 

I prefer long tubes simply because you get more bang for your buck with them. You will see more power out of a long tube over the shorties. They are sometimes kinda a bitch to get it, but yes, in most cases you can get them in with the engine in place. Sometimes people have to jack the engine up some to get them in, sometimes not. It all just depends on how they were made. I have Heddman ceramic coated longtubes, and if I wiggle them just right they will slide right into place without doing anything. However, mine is a 72 and there is a lot more room in the engine bay in mine compared to a 66.

 

if the engine stock, then i think the tri-ys are the best. you can get a pair of ceramic coated ones for about $300. in my 66, i had to unbolt one motor mount, jack it up, slide the header in and bolt it up, then set it down and bolt the mount back up and switch to the other side. but when i had the header bolted up, it wouldnt allow the engine to set back all the way down on the mount. so it takes a lot of wiggling and moving and foolin around with to get em right. but remeber, get ALL the bolts started BEFORE you tighten one up all the way. depending on what gaskets you get, you can usually start the two outside bolts on the header, then slide the gasket between the header flange and the head. cause its just two hooks on the gasket that slip over the 2 outside bolts. felpros gaskets are like that.

 

I just had ceramic tri installed on my 66 at a shop-they put in a h pipe, new mufflers and new tips.....it sounds great....I was going to try to do it myself..glad i didnt-shop said it was pretty tight fit...I love how it drives.Watch your power steering hoses-keep them clear of the hot headers. Scott

 

Headers are always a pain in the 1st gen cars. What are your plans for the car? This will determine the choices

 

With the shorties you are usually giving up a small percent of power compared to the long tubes, however, IMO this difference is not worth the headaches usually associated with long tubes. As mentioned, long tube fitment is usually pretty tight. Long tubes can interfere with a future R&P swap, a T5 swap, etc., etc. One of the biggest downfalls of long tubes is their extended length and propensity to be hanging very low on the the car. The first time you mis-judge a speed bump and nail the crap out of your collector flange, you'll be thinking about the shorties and their better fit.

Dave