i NOTICED IN kALLI'S thread that he had to change the pinion angle when he put the t5 in his previous 6banger. i have a 66 v8. do i need to change it as well. everything is bolted up but i dont have the drive shaft in.

Will i also need to have my drive shaft cut? i have the stocker and the one that came from the fox body.

 

hiya ... usually you should be bang on. my problem was that the housing that I gopt (fabricated one) had the perches welded on. so basically factory mistake
if you put in the driveshaft you should have the transmission yoke 3/4" sticking out when the car sits on the ground and you're perfect.

i don't know what you changed. I assume you had an opriginal 6cyl that is now a V8. what transmission and what rear axle do you have now ?

 

2* or a little less as long as its equilled. Heres some info.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html

 

everything else is original equip. so far. I am tryning to find if i need to cut my drive shaft though.

went from a 3sp to a t5

 

impossible to tell until you have everything back together.
Even when you ask people like moderndrivelines who specialise in this they'll tell you some have toi cut some don't. If you have to cut it's most likely 3/4" or nothing.
Have the car sitting on the fround normal. and the slip yoke of the transmission should be pulled out by 3/4" out of the housing. if that's the case the driveshaft is the proper length.

Do you still have the original rearend? as in 4boltpattern wheels?
If yes then I'm afraid to tell you that with the V8 and the T5 you're likely to brake the rearaxle. this thing is not made for such kinda power

 

I would opt for a new and larger drive shaft and cut to fit. It seems that the 6 banger drive shafts are a bit smaller. It may twist with the additional power. Its a good idea to have it balanced also.

 

i can say from experience that a 7.25" rearend dies before the 6banger driveshaft does. in my experience the winner was driveshaft by 2:0 LOL

but if he has a 8" rearend then I have serious doubts that the original 6banger driveshaft will even fit. you need a 1210-1310 conversion u-joint that simply doesn't exist.

(the overall length of the 6banger rear joing is ~ 2.334", which is the inside length of a 1310 that is 3.25" long if I remember right. the 6banger driveshafts (at least mine) used a 1260/1310 in front but 1210 out back. (ridicoulously small thingies)

So for that the question still stands. what rear axle do you have ? do you have 4 or 5 bolt wheels ?

Kalli

 

We modified the 6 cyl driveline with new (bigger) ends.....

It has stood up quite well under more than a few very hard (about 500 HP) starts....

I cant say how strong the orig 6 cyl ends are but the shaft seems to be pretty damn strong...

That said, anyone who has played with driveshafts a little knows that by the time I had both ends replaced on the shaft, I was damn close to spending as much on the shaft as a new one...

It kind of happened by accident.. we changed in the 9" rear from the 6 banger rear, then we used the the car with the 9" and the 6 banger for a while,,,, so we changed the end of the shaft to fit the 9"... about $100.00....

Ok, so then we put in the 351 and the TKO trans....... at this point we can buy a custom shaft, wait to have it built and shipped, OR pay another hundred bucks to shorten and put another new end on the old one for only a hundred bucks......

So, that is how we ended up with a $200.00 + 6 cylinder drive line.... So far so good though...

 

I had a factory v8. All that stayed the same basically except for the power. 5 lug rear! all that is staying the same now. other than the rust removal, if that is possible. i think if i take off the rust nothing may work.

 

nah if it's all actory V8 you shouldn't need to change any pinion angles etc. i don't really see what you changed in the end. if it's the T5 then pinion angle should be good if it was original V8