help me plan my build.
I smell rice.......insert simile here....
I can get more than 500rwh from a new Mustang with 5K upgrade...Already stated that your starting from nothing and your surprised at not being able to get that HP? Take it slow, build the car and buy parts as you come across them and when the car is at the body shop concentrate on finishing the motor. Maybe by then you'll have more money or a different dirrection..Good Luck..
I can get more than 500rwh from a new Mustang with 5K upgrade...Already stated that your starting from nothing and your surprised at not being able to get that HP? Take it slow, build the car and buy parts as you come across them and when the car is at the body shop concentrate on finishing the motor. Maybe by then you'll have more money or a different dirrection..Good Luck..
Also lets talk about hp for a second. as rpm climbs over 5252 rpm, it takes less torque to make hp. At 9000 rpm it only takes 200ftlbs to make 340 hp. At 7500 rpm you only need 350 ftlbs to make 500 hp. So the tighter you spin the tiny engines, the more hp they make. Now that looks good on paper, but often a dyno queen wont get out of its own way because there is no torque to speak of, like a Honda.
Now lets say you build a 351W that only turns 6500 rpm and it makes 600hp. Its making 485 ftlbs at 6500 rpm, and quite possibly well over 400 ftlbs from 3500 to 6500, particularly with boost. That engine will run rings around the smaller engines, and break everything its attached to doing it.
Sure you can throw together a bunch of parts on the cheap, but it wont live. Also its highly doubtful you rebuilt the 4 in the Neon, you simply added $5k worth of turbo parts to it, right? That is after you bought the car. Rebuilding an engine to withstand that much power is going to cost money, doesnt matter what engine it is. 600hp is big $$$ if you want it to live. If you only want a couple dyno pulls, then you dont need a good bottom end.
Lets tell you something about myself. I built a 3500lb car that ran 11.70@115, pulled 15" hg at idle, used a stock torque converter, and the only aftermarket parts were the intake, carb, headers, and valvetrain. It had 4.11 gears to slow it down, a 3.42 would have put it near the tens. At the 1000 ft mark on the track it was out of RPM, so it stopped accelerating. Couldnt afford the safety stuff for tens.
I had $5k in the entire car, including the purchase price, the wheels, tires, engine, transmission, everything. It lived for 7 years of bracket racing, street driven the entire time, and beaten constantly. It made road trips and was driven to the track, raced, and driven back. The only thing that killed it was some jerk put lead shot in the valve cover, some made it to number 7 rod journal and broke the rod. I guess some chevy guy got tired of getting beaten by it. Its new engine made 522 ftlbs at the wheels, at only 3500rpm, it makes even more higher up. The converter couldnt hold it at that point and it just slipped above that.
Of course a buddy of mine has a 99 Z28 that ran 11.89 with 2.73 gears, stock internal engine, with only bolt ons. It had headers, stall converter, underdrive pulley, and a lid. No nitrous, no blower. So yeah I realize 11s arent that fast anymore using some of the newer cars. Thing is he had three times the money in his car, mostly just buying it. Now it has a stroker and runs mid tens.
You are dealing with a different engine type, what you do to a 4 cylinder wont work on a larger V8. You can make that power with a 302 but its going to cost you to do it.
Yeh. that 2 to 1 ratio is VERY hard to achieve, normallly talkin about boost or N2O. The old saying is, "theirs no substitute for cubic inches" always holds water. I will say that if you do achieve those numbers, its gonna cost.
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Matt's 95 Stang
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