What type of door actuators work on a 68 mustang for power door locks? went to the alarm install place today and they had some gun type actuator that would not work for my car.


Thanks

 

They should all work! I just installed the standard lock actuators that everyone carries, and it works perfect. The problem is that it takes a little more effort to line up the actuator rods, but with a little patience, it was no problem. It took me about five hours and about sixty dollars to install a top notch alarm system with power door locks. My next step is to install the power trunk kit from CJ's.

Let me know if you need help installing anything, because it's a piece of cake, just a little time consuming.

 

Thanks... maybe you could outline the procedure for me so i can tell the alarm guy.

he was telling something about they cant use the kind they normally use because of how far

the window rolls down. of course thats after they already started installing the alarm so i couldnt call off the whole thing.

also when you installed your alarm what type of pins did you use for the trunk and hood... i was looking at mine and they used what looks like to me sime cheap push down thing.


btw.. they installed the Python 902 alarm

 

Python is made by DEI who also makes Viper and Sidewinder and every other type of snake. They also bought Clifford. Pretty good alarms, but in my opinion a tad overpriced for such mass produced electronics.

It kind of scares me that he would use the excuse of the window rolling down too far?????? What does he think, that other windows magically disappear when they go down halfway?! He's really gonna freak out when he has to install one in a Jeep wrangler, because those are actually tight fits.
Anyways, kidding aside, any or most types or actuators should work, they should just mount the actuator higher up. I used the vinyl door panel to cover-up the screw holes that mount the actuator. Once mounted, I had to bend the little rod that connects the actuator to the lock rod. THIS IS THE PITA PART! But any self respecting install guy should be able to do this with a little patience. Once installed the door SHOULD remain stock in appearance and no additional screws should be visable.
I'll try to take some picts of mine tomorrow if you still need them. - Actually, if you need picts, it might be a couple of days, because I'm taking it in for A/C work tomorrow and might not want to remove the door panels, because they're in bad shape and will surely break if I try to take them off again. I have new panels on order, so I'll do my best to take some picts before I take the car in. Just let me know if you need the picts.

 

Oh, and about the pins, they are fine. They usually are simply metal/plastic pins that open/close ground when the trunk or hood is opened.

They are effective against amateurs, but a pro will still be able to disable your alarm in a couple seconds. So, for me, the alarms are used to stop the stupid thiefs and for the conveniece of keyless entry. Other than that it's my classic car insurance for $20,000! lol.

 

You should look here http://www.autoworksracing.com/inter...enter%20pg.htm and yes a alarm won't stop anyone that wants it bad.I have a ****** tow truck i can take a car in 20 sec don't even have to get out just lift the car drive off.The most insurance you can afford is best.

 

Those look sweet, but the price is a bit steep. The pair of actuators is under twenty dollars. So, if you have the extra money than go for it, but if you can live with knowing that there are now two extra hidden screws in your doors than I would go the other route.

The prices for their wire harnesses are also ridiculous! A couple of relays and a little wire for $80-$100, that should only cost $5-$10.

 

Thanksfor the reply.... i do want the convenience of keyless entry. that was my main reason for getting the alarm so i was a little peeved when he said he could not do it.

whenever you can get me pics i will truly appreciate it.

i understand alarms wont work if someone experienced really wants your car. but it will keep 16 year old kids from screwdriver and a joyride.

 

... just a reminder for the pics!!!

 

I found out that some lincolns have the correct latch and its power, no need to buy a kit. The one that I found the latch was positioned in the trunk lid, but it looked just like the latch in my 68, bolted up the same, and just needed 12 volts when I wanted the trunk open. No mods needed to fit it other than running a power wire to it.

Dont remember the model or year, but Im thinkin that it was in the 1980's