i found two sets of heads for 351 cleveland on ebay, one for 100 and one for 80 buy it now. im thinking about going clevor in the stang and these seem like good deals. what are the differences in the 2? what would be a good estimate to have them reconditioned with hardened seats? and what size valves do the have stock?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-...d=p3911.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...d=p3911.c0.m14

which ones would be better if i decide to turbo it in the future?

ALSO (haha sorry) a clevor should fit under the hood of a 66 no prob?

 

The heads are essentially the same. They're both 2V open chamber heads, which means they use the smaller ports and valves (good for lower rpm street use), but they have large combustion chambers which keep compression down. With a turbo, this is probably a good thing.

All that said, I wouldn't build a clevor unless you're dead set on the 'cool' factor. Clevors used to be a viable option before the aftermarket head industry got as big as it is. Right now, you can pick up a set of aftermarket windsor heads that flow just as well as the cleve heads will, and they won't require any special machining or a custom intake.

 

part of it is definatly the "cool factor" and i want something different, i also have a machine shop guy that does great work and is fairly priced. plus i dont have the money for good windsor heads, and the 1985 smog heads arent really worth much...

any idea of machine shop prices for the heads?

 

Well Edelbrock sells the manifold for C heads on the W block.

You need pistons with the valve relief for the C heads to make it work. Consider the pistons, which you should change anyway when you rebuild your engine, the $320 for the intake, and maybe $300-$500 to rebuild the C heads with new valves, springs, etc, and you have a head that flows pretty good considering the price. Compare that with rebuilding with W style slugs, and adding a $1400 set of heads to it, and still needing an intake, and it looks pretty good.

The open chambers will make for very low compression on a 302, a turbo would be perfect for it. Keep in mind that the 2V head is for all intents and purposes the same as the 351M/400M head, except the bump in the exhaust port and the hardened seats in the M heads. Rebuildable cores are easy to find if you want to do this, so dont pay an arm and a leg for them. I got a set of M heads for $50 last year. I think mine were around $300 with new valves and I used Comp springs that came in a kit with the cam.

Just dont overcam it and even with the low CR it should run ok. I wouldnt go over a 214/220@ .050 duration cam with a 302, and a 220/228@ .050 for a 351W, going with a mild converter and not much more than 3.50 gears.. Turbo is a whole different story for cam selection, those are NA suggestions, but the gears and converter would work well with the turbo as you dont need as much stall/gear to get it moving.

Been thinking of doing exactly that with one of the 5.0L roller blocks I have, and a 347 kit. Except I would use a set of my 4V heads, and stuff twin turbos on it. Yeah I am kinda twisted in some respects.

 

Its called a clevor heres a list of the things you'll have to do to make them work its not hard tho. http://www.darkhorseracing.net/clevor_head_mod.htm

 

i know what needs to be done.... just trying to figure out if i should get those heasds and what a shop would charge to rebuild em

 

I would expect to spend $500-800 for those heads. They look rough. Replace all the valves, add adjustable valve train, clean them up, check to make sure they are actually good...

 

hmm, i think i may buy the ones for 100 if there still avalible..plus if the end up bein chat, ive only spent like 160 bucks

 

Open chamber Cleveland 2V heads are not that hard to find. If you have any city nearby with a population of 100,000 or more you should have some sort of pick-n-pull wrecking yard where you get the heads yourself. Look for self serve wrecking yards, most will not tell you anything about their inventory over the phone, so you just have to go look. Those eBay heads turn me off because of the painted valve springs, I would rather start off with a stock set that has not been worked on. I'm not saying those are a bad deal, I just think you could probably do better with a little footwork at home. If you find a set off of some medium-low mileage car at the wrecking yard you may be keep the seats, and maybe more of the valvetrain.

The other option if you can dig up a little money is to track down a set of used 2V Australian heads, or if you dig up even more get a set of CHI or Edelbrock heads.

Peter

 

www.ausfordparts.com check those heads out