Fender apron Question
I have been thinking about replacing the fender apron under my battery tray. Need to learn how to weld anyway and wondering if this wouldn't be a good "jump off" point. At least if you get side way in this job you could still get it to the shop unlike cutting out a floor pan, LOL!
I looked at one article on Mustang Monthly where they trimmed out only the bad portion of the apron then cut a new patch to size, guess my question would be how hard is it to get the new piece cut out to somewhat match and then how do you hold it in place long enough to weld it in?
I was also wondering, how hard is it to take the whole piece out and put a new one in?
It appears that the front fender is bolted on and that the fender apron is spot welded in.
How hard is it to fix the apron part under the battery tray?
I looked at one article on Mustang Monthly where they trimmed out only the bad portion of the apron then cut a new patch to size, guess my question would be how hard is it to get the new piece cut out to somewhat match and then how do you hold it in place long enough to weld it in?
I was also wondering, how hard is it to take the whole piece out and put a new one in?
It appears that the front fender is bolted on and that the fender apron is spot welded in.
How hard is it to fix the apron part under the battery tray?
It depends on how bad the damage is. The concave areas are very hard to get to and sometimes its just as easy to drill out the spot welds and buy a new replacment panel. The good thing is most of the Classic Mustnag panels don't cost very much and are easy to install. If replacing the panel, then the fender will have to come off (and maybe most of the front) As far as practice, I would start with some gauge steel on a work table and see how I done, then once comfortable do the panel that needs repair. A Plasma cutter makes things a lot easier when it comes to sheet metal work. If you don't have access to one, then the ole "WIZ WHEEL" will do the job. If the damage is confined to an inch or two, then a patch would be in order, if larger, then I would replace the panel. Keep in mind that the damaged area that you remove needs to be kept and used as a pattern for the new metal. Lay it on top and use a Sharpie to mark the pattern. So form a game plan before you start, and decide what the best area to remove is and how easy it will be to weld back in.
Last edited by 67 evil eleanor; Nov 16, 2008 at 05:16 PM.
For me it's pretty bad. It looks like there is already a patch (or what's left of one). Is there a way to do this without welding? JB Weld, panel weld, etc.? Welding is beyond me, and I'm not ready to go to the body shop just yet. My goal at this point is to get the car running so I can drive it while restoring on a TIGHT budget. Here are some pics:
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=PB160715.jpg
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=PB160718.jpg
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=PB160717.jpg
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=PB160715.jpg
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=PB160718.jpg
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=PB160717.jpg
I replaced all four in my 1970 convertible. I think the front ones are some of the easiest panels on the car. Unbolt and remove the fender, remove the battery and battery tray, drill out the spot welds (spot weld drill or 1/4" drill bit, with the drill bit drill all the way through), separate the panel (it helps to have a panel knife or rigid paint scraper), clean up the edges and grind away all paint for welding (number one problem in poor welds), Clamp the new panel in place (clamps, vice grips, or you can get fancy and drill 1/8" holes and use cleckos), spot weld it soldily in place. These panels overlap, so they are easy to weld. Also, have a body hammer and dolly to ensure the pieces are tight and the contures match. Clean it up and repaint. It is about 1/2 days work.
I've probably used Panel Bond more than anyone here for body work and while it is great stuff, it has it's limitations. It should not be used for structural repairs but I don't think I would consider this area structural. You will need an overlap of about 2 inches all around the patch and you absolutely must get to clean metal on the car. Panel bond needs clean metal to stick. The cost is about $40 for a caulk size tube. That will be more than enough to do that area. I think you should go ahead and clean the area up and grind off the rust and rot and see what you have available. Bonding or welding, you need clean metal to attach to. Clean it up and post some more pictures.
I agree, replace the whole piece. Get a spot weld drill and drill out all the spot welds that hold the piece in. That is after you take off the fender. It is not that hard. If you can not weld and/or do not have a welder. Ask a freind to weld it for you or a friends father. Take the new panel and drill holes in the edge of it just like the spots weld were in the old one, clamp it tight, and just weld up those spots. Grind the welds down and with a little paint you will not even know it was not the original piece. Just take your time and do not rush it. It will be easier then you think!
I think this would be a good place to learn how to weld. It's not a high visibility place and the majority of the welds will be plug welds, the easiest weld. If you want to drive the car before you repair the apron you can always move the battery to the trunk, it'll help with weight distribution too.


