disc brake swap problem
Bob, that's not the purpose of the residual pressure valve. The point of that particular piece is to keep ~10psi on the rear w/c's to keep the shoes in close contact with the drums, that way you don't have a lot of pedal drop while waiting for the shoes to travel any extra space. You don't absolutely need it, but it definitely doesn't hurt.
just a quick scribble ... hope it will help. if you had originally only one line from master to distribution block, then the new setup has one line going to distribution block and the rear gets it's own line. so therefore rear is not hooked to distribution block anymore. There is a plug with the kit you can screw in the distribution block.
No, mort, Kalli is talking about 65-66 models which have single bowl m/c's, and therefore only one line running to the distribution block.
That said, you need some sort of proportioning valve to reduce pressure to the rear brakes. If you didn't replace your factory distribution block from one out of whatever kit you used, you need to get a proportioning valve of some sort in there. Drum brakes require much less pressure to operate than discs, and rear brakes require less pressure than fronts anyway due to weight transfer. Your car likely gets unstable during high speed braking because the rear brakes are being applied too much.
Talk to the guy(s) at CSRP and pick yourself up either a disc brake combo block (built in proportioning valve) to replace your current distribution block with, or an adjustable in-line proportioning valve (or "pressure reduction valve", if you're being ****).
That said, you need some sort of proportioning valve to reduce pressure to the rear brakes. If you didn't replace your factory distribution block from one out of whatever kit you used, you need to get a proportioning valve of some sort in there. Drum brakes require much less pressure to operate than discs, and rear brakes require less pressure than fronts anyway due to weight transfer. Your car likely gets unstable during high speed braking because the rear brakes are being applied too much.
Talk to the guy(s) at CSRP and pick yourself up either a disc brake combo block (built in proportioning valve) to replace your current distribution block with, or an adjustable in-line proportioning valve (or "pressure reduction valve", if you're being ****).
was away for a few days. i can say yes and amen to all what Tad said.
1st of all it's a proportioning valve, not a combo valve or anything else. it only reduces the brake pressure going to the back. nothing else
as well yes and amen to the red thing. I had it mounted with disc brakes in back with the result that the rear brakes were always applied a little. you know when you don't roll to a stop you feel something dragging. they are needed for drums only.
If you have a 64-66, the scribble should help. 67+ i have absolutely no idea :-)
1st of all it's a proportioning valve, not a combo valve or anything else. it only reduces the brake pressure going to the back. nothing else
as well yes and amen to the red thing. I had it mounted with disc brakes in back with the result that the rear brakes were always applied a little. you know when you don't roll to a stop you feel something dragging. they are needed for drums only.
If you have a 64-66, the scribble should help. 67+ i have absolutely no idea :-)
forgot to mention ... if you mount the red to black i used a vice and still it was leaking. you might need some thread tape, don't know.I removed it since I have dfiscs in back. When finished make triple sure that it is all dry between them. i was loosing brake pressure over night because of this
just a quick scribble ... hope it will help. if you had originally only one line from master to distribution block, then the new setup has one line going to distribution block and the rear gets it's own line. so therefore rear is not hooked to distribution block anymore. There is a plug with the kit you can screw in the distribution block.
Thanks for the pic. Going thru the swap this weekend and of course, the plumbing is the hardest part. One BIG question for you and the forum - does it matter what line goes to what port on the distribution block? On your pic/scribble, you seem to indicate that the rear brake line is fed from the rear port (#4). On my '65, the rear was fed by #3 with the passenger front on #4.
I ask since it will make the plumbing job slightly easier if I can re-align things to fit your pic.
Also, I'm hoping to get MC plumbing pics of OTHER swap jobs. Pls post if you have them.
Thanks as always for your expert opinions.
StangBoy
Wow, there is a lot of mis-information in this post. That is a brake proportioning valve, but it is also known as a pressure reduction valve. Here is the Ford version if you would like to read about it:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The red item is a residual pressure valve. There are two different types. The red one maintains 10 psi for drum brakes and the blue one 2 psi for disc brakes. You only need the red one for drum brakes and nothing if you have discs, unless the master cylinder is below the calipers/cylinder (like in a streetrod where it is under the floor):
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=23&y=13
Plumb it as described unless you have disc brakes in the rear, then omit the residual pressure valve. The adjustment is only to reduce pressure to the rear brakes and should be set up so the fronts lock up just before the rears.
As for plumbing the master cylinder. In a disc/drum set up, the front reservoir goes to the rear brakes and the rear reservoir goes to the front brakes. In any other combination it doesn't matter. The reason for this is that disc brakes require more fluid to engage and they require the larger reservoir in the back of the disc/drum mc.
I hope that helps. I have set up and plumbed many, many different brake combos on a whole lot of different cars.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The red item is a residual pressure valve. There are two different types. The red one maintains 10 psi for drum brakes and the blue one 2 psi for disc brakes. You only need the red one for drum brakes and nothing if you have discs, unless the master cylinder is below the calipers/cylinder (like in a streetrod where it is under the floor):
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=23&y=13
Plumb it as described unless you have disc brakes in the rear, then omit the residual pressure valve. The adjustment is only to reduce pressure to the rear brakes and should be set up so the fronts lock up just before the rears.
As for plumbing the master cylinder. In a disc/drum set up, the front reservoir goes to the rear brakes and the rear reservoir goes to the front brakes. In any other combination it doesn't matter. The reason for this is that disc brakes require more fluid to engage and they require the larger reservoir in the back of the disc/drum mc.
I hope that helps. I have set up and plumbed many, many different brake combos on a whole lot of different cars.
HALLELUJAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Praise the Lord, Fakesnakes gets the Prize.
What a ordeal of MISINFORMATION as was stated in that transaction.
Dan
www.chockostangclassicmustang.com
Praise the Lord, Fakesnakes gets the Prize.
What a ordeal of MISINFORMATION as was stated in that transaction.
Dan
www.chockostangclassicmustang.com
I don't think so, there are some differing viewpoints and different focus for what some thought the most important points to cover in the evolution of this thread, (over a few months),, but not "misinformation".....
"Misinformation" is just a bit of an exaggeration.....
The simple point of the whole thread as it was originally inspired was to point out the use for the RPV with drum rear brakes..... which I think was sufficiently explained with little misinformation, but what do I know?
The intention here is to get harrisont the correct information. I also would like to see him identify the kit he bought so the rest of us have some warning. There are incorrect statements and I'll list them here. I am not doing this to call anyone out, simply to keep our facts correct. Afterall, that is why we are all here! Statements to ignore (bold is incorrect part):
There are a couple of different styles of adjustable proportioning valves. That one appears to be the style that works with a single master cylinder only.
The valve will have two outlets, the valve with the off red anodized fitting will go to the back brakes. The other outlet will service your new front brakes.
If you have a dual m/c, that prop valve will not work unless there are two inlets and two outlets
Just a point of clarity for .boB's post and in his defense. The valve by itself is technically a pressure reduction valve. The **** allows you to reduce the pressure from the input side on the output side. The application of this pressure reduction valve in a brakes set up is as a proportioning valve when install in the rear brake circuit. It reduces the pressure to the rear brakes allowing you to fine tune your brake setup for the best performance.
There are a couple of different styles of adjustable proportioning valves. That one appears to be the style that works with a single master cylinder only.
The valve will have two outlets, the valve with the off red anodized fitting will go to the back brakes. The other outlet will service your new front brakes.
If you have a dual m/c, that prop valve will not work unless there are two inlets and two outlets
Just a point of clarity for .boB's post and in his defense. The valve by itself is technically a pressure reduction valve. The **** allows you to reduce the pressure from the input side on the output side. The application of this pressure reduction valve in a brakes set up is as a proportioning valve when install in the rear brake circuit. It reduces the pressure to the rear brakes allowing you to fine tune your brake setup for the best performance.


