Front End Screech
Thanks for all your feedback and suggestions...
To help narrow down the "What it's definitely not list" I can tell you that it's not:
- the power steering (I briefly considered this too)
- no loose belts, etc
It's definitely tire squealing, rubber on road.
I jacked it up today, pulled the front wheels off and checked the front end. I found that the wheel bearing nut on the passenger side needed an extra half turn which fixed a little bit of lateral movement in that wheel.
I also found on the driver side that the strut arm needed to be tightened where it joins the body. It wasn't sloppy loose, just needed a little extra tension. I tightened everything up to torque wrench specs and thought I might have it solved.
Took it for a ride and *presto* it's still happening.
Things we figured out today:
- it makes more noise when it's just one person driving
- when there is a passenger (extra weight) it takes increased acceleration or higher speed (say 40mph) for it to make noise. With just me driving it squeals at 15-20mph.
All the front end bushings and upper and lower arms and joints are all less than 18 months old, so I think I can safely rule out it's not any of that. Same goes for the wheel bearings.
I guess I can check the upper arm nut and see if that's it, but looking at it all today pretty thoroughly didn't show up any noticeable play.
I'll search for the Shelby drop specs... and I think I'll take that in to the shop in the morning and have them align it to that, though like I said it's been aligned this way for 18 months without a problem.
Hmmmm?
To help narrow down the "What it's definitely not list" I can tell you that it's not:
- the power steering (I briefly considered this too)
- no loose belts, etc
It's definitely tire squealing, rubber on road.
I jacked it up today, pulled the front wheels off and checked the front end. I found that the wheel bearing nut on the passenger side needed an extra half turn which fixed a little bit of lateral movement in that wheel.
I also found on the driver side that the strut arm needed to be tightened where it joins the body. It wasn't sloppy loose, just needed a little extra tension. I tightened everything up to torque wrench specs and thought I might have it solved.
Took it for a ride and *presto* it's still happening.
Things we figured out today:
- it makes more noise when it's just one person driving
- when there is a passenger (extra weight) it takes increased acceleration or higher speed (say 40mph) for it to make noise. With just me driving it squeals at 15-20mph.
All the front end bushings and upper and lower arms and joints are all less than 18 months old, so I think I can safely rule out it's not any of that. Same goes for the wheel bearings.
I guess I can check the upper arm nut and see if that's it, but looking at it all today pretty thoroughly didn't show up any noticeable play.
I'll search for the Shelby drop specs... and I think I'll take that in to the shop in the morning and have them align it to that, though like I said it's been aligned this way for 18 months without a problem.
Hmmmm?
Last edited by jstanley; Sep 14, 2008 at 10:23 PM. Reason: typos
the camera stick idea is great....why?
We can assume that both front wheels are aligned somewhat the same (pretty close)
by having the camera next to both front wheels we can review not only video but audio.
If both wheels squeal the same at some point (L/R turn) then its very safe to assume it is indeed an alignment issue.
If only one wheel squeals then its not alignment primary....(alignment secondary to ball joint of example) The audio and video may offer clues to help solve the issue....
Plus its my idea that's why its great
-Gun
We can assume that both front wheels are aligned somewhat the same (pretty close)
by having the camera next to both front wheels we can review not only video but audio.
If both wheels squeal the same at some point (L/R turn) then its very safe to assume it is indeed an alignment issue.
If only one wheel squeals then its not alignment primary....(alignment secondary to ball joint of example) The audio and video may offer clues to help solve the issue....
Plus its my idea that's why its great
-Gun
The shelby drop changes the geometry
Here are the specs
https://mustangforums.com/forum/show...ight=alignment
Here are the specs
https://mustangforums.com/forum/show...ight=alignment
it's either a completely wrong geometry, but I'm all the way with Decurion.
I bet you a nut in your front end has gone loose. All in place when you stand and getting out of whack when you drive.
My buddy had a similar problem with a 68 only 2 weeks ago. the 67+ have a strut with an exzenter going to the lower control arm to adjust camber and caster. the bolt was dead so it would move ever so slightly. Now since you have a 65 this is adjusted via the UCA, which you said you fiddled with for the shelby drop.
Maybe the front shims have fallen out so the UCA would move, but only when you have enough drag from driving.
I'd jack up the car and see if
a) the shims are still there
b) if all bolts on the UCA and lower arm are tight
c) check your balljoints (that's probably not the case since your sttering geometry was exactly as first alignment)
d) whack the UCA (the wheel side) with a rubber mallet to see if it can move.
do the same with the LCA. make sure nothing moves there. just like rmodel says as well
It's the only explanation I have for your problem. UCA or LCA
try as well if you have the same problem in reverse (15mph+) on a safe car park.
I bet you a nut in your front end has gone loose. All in place when you stand and getting out of whack when you drive.
My buddy had a similar problem with a 68 only 2 weeks ago. the 67+ have a strut with an exzenter going to the lower control arm to adjust camber and caster. the bolt was dead so it would move ever so slightly. Now since you have a 65 this is adjusted via the UCA, which you said you fiddled with for the shelby drop.
Maybe the front shims have fallen out so the UCA would move, but only when you have enough drag from driving.
I'd jack up the car and see if
a) the shims are still there
b) if all bolts on the UCA and lower arm are tight
c) check your balljoints (that's probably not the case since your sttering geometry was exactly as first alignment)
d) whack the UCA (the wheel side) with a rubber mallet to see if it can move.
do the same with the LCA. make sure nothing moves there. just like rmodel says as well
It's the only explanation I have for your problem. UCA or LCA
try as well if you have the same problem in reverse (15mph+) on a safe car park.
Well after 2 weeks of pulling out my hair, I finally got this problem of the front end screech solved thanks to everyone and your suggestions.
Basically I ended up jacking up the front end and checking every nut and bolt, tightening everything down to torque wrench settings and... still no change. No broken bolts, no loose arms, nothing.
What was also interesting was that with a full tank of gas (more weight at the back), the problem was worse. With a passenger up front, it was better.
So I finally got a copy of the Shelby drop alignment specs, took the car back to the shop and had them align it to Daze's recommendation.
The guy looked at the specs and said, "No way... can't do that. That's impossible."
But after 2.5 hours of tedious work he aligned it exactly within the specification range recommended.
The result?
No more screech, better handling and much more fun to drive.
What was weird is that I'd done the Shelby drop almost 18 months ago and never noticed the problem before. It didn't screech and it was only when the engine went back in, was when it became noticeable. The only difference in front end weight was removal of the factory AC, the addition of headers and dual exhaust, which I can't imagine would make that much difference one way or the other.
But anyhow, problem solved.
Thanks for all your help.
- Jason
Basically I ended up jacking up the front end and checking every nut and bolt, tightening everything down to torque wrench settings and... still no change. No broken bolts, no loose arms, nothing.
What was also interesting was that with a full tank of gas (more weight at the back), the problem was worse. With a passenger up front, it was better.
So I finally got a copy of the Shelby drop alignment specs, took the car back to the shop and had them align it to Daze's recommendation.
The guy looked at the specs and said, "No way... can't do that. That's impossible."
But after 2.5 hours of tedious work he aligned it exactly within the specification range recommended.
The result?
No more screech, better handling and much more fun to drive.
What was weird is that I'd done the Shelby drop almost 18 months ago and never noticed the problem before. It didn't screech and it was only when the engine went back in, was when it became noticeable. The only difference in front end weight was removal of the factory AC, the addition of headers and dual exhaust, which I can't imagine would make that much difference one way or the other.
But anyhow, problem solved.
Thanks for all your help.
- Jason
It sounds like it's toed out instead of in. Is there any "feathering" to your tires? Run your hand across the top of them from inside to out or outside to in and see if they are smooth both ways. Also, does it seem to "grab" every rut or stripe in the road?
Last edited by Stepman; Sep 21, 2008 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Well...never mind then.
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