problems adjusting roller rockers
Problem: My roller rockers are clanking. I have a valve cover with the top cut out so I can adjust them when the car is running. I start at number one and back it off until it clanks then tighten it until it stops (zero lash) then I go 1/4 a full rotation 3 times slowly to let the oil go through the rods. after I am done with all 4 cylinders I tighten the locks. When I go to do the other side (yes I turn off the car and switch the valve covers) there is always one of the rockers that starts clanking again.
Questions:
1. Do the numbers on the rockers mean anything ( the 1 and 2 ) Do I need to put the one on the fuel side and the two on the air side? Right now there are some cylinders with 1 1 and some with 2 2
Any Thoughts ? I don't want my car to sound like a POS going down the road anymore.
Questions:
1. Do the numbers on the rockers mean anything ( the 1 and 2 ) Do I need to put the one on the fuel side and the two on the air side? Right now there are some cylinders with 1 1 and some with 2 2
Any Thoughts ? I don't want my car to sound like a POS going down the road anymore.
Last edited by dantheman345; Oct 20, 2008 at 03:21 PM.
The only reason the numbers might be different is maybe they are different ratios????
Thats basically how i do them and dont have a problem, its not the correct way, but it faster then doing each cylinder with them closed and then rotating the engine.
Thats basically how i do them and dont have a problem, its not the correct way, but it faster then doing each cylinder with them closed and then rotating the engine.
WTH? you dong it with the car running? with the lifter at its lowest point tighten the nut down to where the pushord doesnt spin feely with your fingertips. then turn the nut 1/4 turn more with a wrench and if you have lock nuts tighten them down.
rmodel does it the way I prefer to do it. It is more accurate and less messy.
In fact there is a procedure in good service manuals that list which valves you can adjust at what position of the harmonic balancer. There is one procedure that works with only two different positions and it works well for short duration cams. There is another procedure that involves three different positions and it would be preferable for longer duration cams since it ends up adjusting while the cam is closer to the center of the heel.
I stopped doing engine running hydraulic lifter adjustment about 25 years ago.
In fact there is a procedure in good service manuals that list which valves you can adjust at what position of the harmonic balancer. There is one procedure that works with only two different positions and it works well for short duration cams. There is another procedure that involves three different positions and it would be preferable for longer duration cams since it ends up adjusting while the cam is closer to the center of the heel.
I stopped doing engine running hydraulic lifter adjustment about 25 years ago.
^ indeed.
try going 1/2 turn in, thats the way i've always done em and i cant recall ever having a problem.
btw, with guideplates and roller rockers they are most likely going to make some noise. sometimes its the rockers themselves, and sometimes its the pushrods clanging against the guideplates.
try going 1/2 turn in, thats the way i've always done em and i cant recall ever having a problem.
btw, with guideplates and roller rockers they are most likely going to make some noise. sometimes its the rockers themselves, and sometimes its the pushrods clanging against the guideplates.
And if you have headers on the car, you will hear valve train noise much more than with the stock iron manifold.
I also agree with the above. Do not adjust hydraulic lifters with the engine running.
I also agree with the above. Do not adjust hydraulic lifters with the engine running.
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