so i decided to pour some water down then cowl, and not so surprised, water leaked down into the passenger compartment. could i block the cowl off and run a aftermarket heater assembly? or will i still need the cowl there?

And, i decided to pull the carpet and see how he did the floor pans, he actually didnt do too bad a job, he cut out the middle of it but not the whole, but he did tack it in in the inside nice and strong, so i may just add some more tacks, and cut out some more on the bottom to make it look nicer..there is also some rust on the rockers that i will probably cut out and weld some patch panels into so make it strong as i am not going for a concourse restoration as i am a high school student haha.
we are also going to do the mustang II front since the shock towers are rusted out in some places and the front rails need replaced anyways.

Can someone give me a link to the part of the frame that runs under the front floorpans? its right after the angled looking piece of the front framerails

oh yeah! good news!! the computer at the DMV didnt go back that far so all we need to do is have a cop come and verify the VIN that we have and we can register it

 

How about some pics????

 

sorry, pica soon to come, i dont have a cord for the camera so i have to make a CD before i can add them

 

We need pics!

Love fastbacks.

 

That section is a 'frame rail extension' and adds support to the front floor. See page 185 in the NPD catalog part #121. They run about 30 bucks each from NPD... I was in a rush and made a set up using 14gauge one morning. Quite easy to make if you have access to a bender.

 

thats what sub frame connectors weld to correct? how hard is it to replace?

 

Yes you can weld the cowl vent shut and use a after market heat and ac unit like vintage air.

 

Its not too bad... after you cut out the front floors, toe boards and torque boxes. Sorry but it was at that point when I discovered the need to replace mine. Next day I went to a metal shop, paid 20 bucks for the metal and they let me bend them up myself. Returned to the garage and installed them, then the t-boxes, t-boards, sub-frame connectors and then floor pans.

If I remember correctly they have about 30 spot welds holding them onto the frame rail (both sides and bottom of the rail), a few more on the tunnel support as well I think. Toe boards, front floor pans are also spot welded to this.

 

Floors should not be tacked! You need a continuous weld bead and there is no reason other than laziness to leave a big flap where they overlap. When it is done, it should look more like a butt weld. And that doesn't mean it has a crack (sorry couldn't resist!).

 

+1 on going with an aftermarket heat and a/c setup (Vintage Air for us) and closing off the cowl vents. Our cowl was shot so we did replace it and I never want to do that again. Trace out the pattern for each side and mark them left/right as they differ in angles. I think I used 16gauge.

Once cut they fit down in the recess nicely. A bit of fiberglass strand body fill around the edges to keep it from cracking, slap a skim of regular body fill in to level the slight dip and then finish off with the 2-part spray primer/filler.