Hi, new here, need a little clarification on some stuff. A friend of mine recently bought a 72 Mustang, currently has a 302 in it. He wants a bigger motor now. I'm a Chevy guy, so all this is pretty much new to me.

Base plan is a 351w block, RHS 180 heads, Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 276 roller cam, roughly 9.5-10:1 compression. Looking for 400hp/400tq/6000 rpm. Nothing extreme, just something a little more than the 302 that's currently in the car. Still uncertain about the rotating assembly.

Someone correct my if I'm wrong, but the late model roller versions of the 351w will be able to fit on the same motor mounts that are in the car now, right?

What about bellhousing? I have read that there are 2 different flywheel sizes. Car has a manual, no clue which/what it is. I want to say 4 speed..?

Also read that the deck heights are ever so slightly different between the roller and non-roller version, but shouldn't cause an issue between intakes, correct?

How stout is the factory rotating assembly? Crank and rods. He's not going to be spinning over 6000 RPM's or so -I'm planning on getting his shift point at about 6000.

That's about all I can think of for now. Thanks in advance guys.

 

i dont think the crank and rods will like 400+hp. but if you go with em, make sure you upgrade to ARP hardware.

sounds like a decent setup once complete. but i cant really help on any of those questions.

 

deck height might not be an issue between intakes but the piston clearance will be.. you will lose compression if you dont pay attention to that one..

 

Im about 99% sure that the deck heights are exactly the same. The difference is in the height of the lifter bores, not the deck itself. The roller lifters require a deeper bore since they are taller than a standard flat tappet lifter. If the bores were not made deeper, then when the lifter was pushed up by the cam, it would come out of its bore enough to let the oil out, and that oule be a very bad thing in oil pressure land! Now, you are planning on using the factory roller hardware (lifters, dog bones, and retainer) correct? The reason I am asking is because according to Comp, that cam you have listed will not work with factory roller lifters, apparently it is a retrofit cam. However, I would call and ask them. While you're at it, have them to recommend you a cam for your application, because the one you have chosen will not get you a 6000 RPM shift point, maybe 5500 at the most, but definitely not 6000 (its only rated to 5800, and will most likely start falling off at about 5600). Also, as far as the rotating assembly goes, As long as you upgrade to ARP hardware and have it balanced, you should be ok for 400 HP with stock parts. I would suggest also adding a main stud girdle, it will make the block a lot stronger, even stronger than a 4 bolt main block. It may not be a MUST, but it's cheap insurance compared to what can happen without one. Anyway, hope this helps. I have built a couple stroker motors (347s) and know quite a bit about the Windsor style engines, so if you have any more questions, feel free to PM me at anytime.

 

The deck height on a 351w is 9.5 inches and a 302 is 8.2 inches, but here is a dimension chart for all Ford engines:

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/charts/217.pdf

400HP is easy in that engine and the components you have chosen will hold up fine. Quality gaskets and hardware will be your friend.

 

Thanks thus far guys,

As for the cam, yes, it is a retrofit roller. At first, the plan was using flat tappet block (thus, the cam selection), but then I had the thought of "why not use a factory roller and use factory equipment?" Haven't looked at cam specs since to see what's out there for the factory rollers. But yes, the new idea would be to put the cam under a factory dogbone setup.

Yea, ARP hardware has already been purchased. Never was a believer in buying a great engine, but holding it together with sub-par hardware.

As for the 2 vs 4 bolt mains - we're both out there as factory rollers? Like I should go look for the 4 bolt specifically?

What about fuel delivery? A good old Carter should be sufficient, right?

EDIT: Just looked at the cam stuff offered by Comp. Without getting into the custom grind stuff (which might be what we end up doing, not sure), again, correct my if I'm wrong, but a 302 factory roller grind would fit the 351, all that would need to get done is set the timing to the 302 specs, right?

 

Actually, the HO 302s (factory roller cam engines) are timed the same as the 351W, so yes, you can use any 302 roller cam in the 351W, and you can still use the 351W firing order. There never was a factory 4 bolt main roller 351W block, so there's no need in looking for one, you wont find it... Just add a main stud girdle and you'll be good to go. As far as a carb; if you are looking for all out performance, stay away from the Carter/Edelbrock style carbs. Slap on a Holley or Demon and you'll be good. I run a 650 CFM mighty Demon (mechanical secondary double pumper, chokeless) on my stroker, and it is absolutely awesome!

 

Alright, next round of questions:

Difference between blocks. Upon much reading, it seems that the block I am after is the F4TE block. But then I read there's a F4AE. What's the difference? Is it worth me trying to find a factory roller block, or should I just go with the first 351w block I find that's usable and, if need be, get a small base circle cam and do the conversion mod (not really a big deal)?

Read that something like 83, Ford switched to the 1 piece RMS. I am assuming, if it's like Chevy, that would mean I must also use a 1 pc RMS crank.

Timing cover. Are they different somehow between a roller and non-roller block? If not, would the timing cover off the 302 work? Obviously the deck height being taller between the 302 and the 351, but is the crank center to cam center also higher?