Maybe buying a '65 convertable...need advice
Hey everyone,
I was hoping to get advice for buying a 65' convertable 302 v8, edlbrock 4v carb and intake honey gold metallic paint, straight body, 3 speed automatic. No major defects, mileage 123,000. I don't think the owner has put anything into this car. It's a daily rider.
Thanks!
I was hoping to get advice for buying a 65' convertable 302 v8, edlbrock 4v carb and intake honey gold metallic paint, straight body, 3 speed automatic. No major defects, mileage 123,000. I don't think the owner has put anything into this car. It's a daily rider.
Thanks!
first and formost, check for rust. take a magnet and look behind the rear wheels, the floors trunk, frame rails etc.. thats the biggest problem with these cars. also take some water and pour it into the cowl behind the hood, if water leaks down into the floors, thats a PITA to repalce
We'd need a lot of detailed pics to get a semi-accurate guesstimate, and even then it's not the same as looking at the car in person.
Grab the VIN (driver's side inner fender, right under the hood) and the warranty plate info (driver's door) and post them here. A base T-code (200ci I6) car isn't worth the same as an A-code (220hp V8) with pony trim, no matter which engine is in it.
Grab the VIN (driver's side inner fender, right under the hood) and the warranty plate info (driver's door) and post them here. A base T-code (200ci I6) car isn't worth the same as an A-code (220hp V8) with pony trim, no matter which engine is in it.
Well, the color alone is a good enough reason to buy it. However, racin66coupe is right about the rust. Check where the leaf springs are connected in the front and rear, the bottom of the shock towers (you will have to crawl underneath for this), the floor pans and toeboards, and of course the frame rails. Now, someone correct me if I am wrong, but on a convertible the torque boxes are particularly important since the car has no roof structure to help hold it together. Old Mustangs are unibody cars and are mostly held together with the rockers and floors and roof. With no roof, convertibles have torque boxes to help keep them from folding up. If I am right, would one of you convertible guys tell him how to find the torque boxes and check them?
Hello mustangride,you will have torque boxes on both sides of the convertible. The top of the torque box is directly under the toe kicks. The front of them will be spot welded to the rear outer frame rail(directly behind each of the front tires) and the front of the rocker panels. I'd take pics for you ,but mine are rotted :P hope this helps you locate them.
PULL OUT THE CARPET AND CHECK THE INNER ROCKERS!!!!!!!!!
heres the deal, my carpet was wet rusting the inner rockers
rust + rocker panels=less support
less support + no roof =car sagged in middle
rusted inner rockers + sagged car = tons of work pulling the car on a fram rack trying to get the (poorly made) after market rockers to fit
save yourself A TON of trouble and peel back the carpet in front of the drivers seat along the door opening. any rust through this panel, and consider the car A LOT more work than you might think
heres the deal, my carpet was wet rusting the inner rockers
rust + rocker panels=less support
less support + no roof =car sagged in middle
rusted inner rockers + sagged car = tons of work pulling the car on a fram rack trying to get the (poorly made) after market rockers to fit
save yourself A TON of trouble and peel back the carpet in front of the drivers seat along the door opening. any rust through this panel, and consider the car A LOT more work than you might think


