Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

M/Starter and Radiator TeckProblems Help!!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-27-2008, 02:45 PM
  #1  
juansp67
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
juansp67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location:
Posts: 106
Lightbulb M/Starter and Radiator TeckProblems Help!!!

I am having difficulty finding out on what side the cables for the mini-starter i just installed on my t-5 go on no sure if they go here can u give me a hand guys i know many of u have installed them but im stuck here:



ok second problem i have a 24" radiator that came in the car when i bought it but it didnt come with any brackets to bolted up to the frame and as u can see it is way off, but this is the recommended radiator the 68 mustang. before i went on drilling holes and welding nuts so it can bolt on to i wanted to see if any of u guys have seen this and if they have specific brackets for this radiator??
i looked all over online but i cant seem to get any answers; i would appreciate your help
here are some pics:



hey guys i just installed my rebulit 289 with the t-5 got to say it was an easy project and very fun. only part i had trouble in was getting the t-5 bolted on the cross-member i just struggled a little. i also installed my exhaust, my causin made it for me and it came out great
here some pics of my progress:


juansp67 is offline  
Old 11-27-2008, 03:31 PM
  #2  
Starfury
6th Gear Member
 
Starfury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Default

The big power cable for the starter goes on the left (B+) post of the fender solenoid. The smaller solenoid activation cable goes on the right post, where your previous starter feed wire would've been hooked up. Nothing else should be connected to that post. The wire you have hooked up there right now needs to go back on the B+ terminal.

The two 90* female plugs you have hanging there are the same size as the two small terminals on the front of the fender solenoid. That's where they go. One is the power lead from the starter switch, the other is the ignition 12V bypass. If you hook them up and the starter doesn't turn over when you turn the key, switch them to the opposing terminals and it should work.
Starfury is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 10:38 AM
  #3  
juansp67
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
juansp67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location:
Posts: 106
Default

thanks starfury....

does any one else have any advice for my radiator???
juansp67 is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 11:16 AM
  #4  
1965fastback
3rd Gear Member
 
1965fastback's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 790
Default

Aline it where it should be and then dill a hole through the rad. support and bolt it to it.
1965fastback is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 11:30 AM
  #5  
juansp67
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
juansp67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location:
Posts: 106
Default

yea thats what i was thinking of doing, but i thought there might of been another alternative like a bracket or something to hold it in place
juansp67 is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 11:32 AM
  #6  
valley firearms
5th Gear Member
 
valley firearms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 2,505
Default

If I were you I'd just get the correct radiator. This may be a good excuse to step up to aluminum.
valley firearms is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 01:35 PM
  #7  
fakesnakes
4th Gear Member
 
fakesnakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,839
Default

That is the correct radiator. It originally came with the correct brackets. A 68 uses brackets to connect the radiator to the core support. Here they are:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Cat...a193&x=18&y=15

You will also need the insulators:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Cat...ator&x=15&y=17

Looking at your solenoid in the picture:
1. far left heavy terminal: + battery, heavy gauge lead to the ministarter, and any other B+ power needed under the hood
2. next small terminal: starter signal from key
3. second small terminal: ignition terminal only used if you have a coil that requires a ballast resistor (it doesn't appear that you do)
4. far right heavy terminal: light gauge lead to the ministarter solenoid (causes the starter to engage.

Hope that helps!
fakesnakes is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 01:44 PM
  #8  
valley firearms
5th Gear Member
 
valley firearms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 2,505
Default

Fakesnake is correct. I used an aluminum radiator and didn't want the top mount. Check page 23 or my cardomain site (link below) and you'll see what I did for the same problem. If you can't find the top support, and I can find my old one, I will send you mine if you aren't in a hurry.
valley firearms is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 01:48 PM
  #9  
fakesnakes
4th Gear Member
 
fakesnakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,839
Default

Mike, that is an excellent and well documented site! Thanks for posting, I've added it to my favorites.
fakesnakes is offline  
Old 11-28-2008, 02:24 PM
  #10  
valley firearms
5th Gear Member
 
valley firearms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 2,505
Default

thank you, I appreciate that.
valley firearms is offline  


Quick Reply: M/Starter and Radiator TeckProblems Help!!!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:09 AM.