hey everyone, i came to everyone with this problem about six monthes ago and thought i fixed, well i thought wrong. when i turn the key in the ignition the starter solenoid shakes and buzzes. first i determined that was the problem so i replaced that,, didnt work. so then i relpaced the battery cables and the solenoid to stater cable, didnt work. so then i replaced the ignition coil and that temporarily worked. after that failed i replaced the starter and still no such luck. I have a hunch it the engine bay wyring assembly but im only 16 and on a tight budget. if anyone can help it would be appericiated, i get my license in march and need a car...

 

check this one out:
http://www.gascc.ie/index.php/compon...y=73&showall=1

 

Check the ground on the engine block. Also check the park/neutral circuit and make sure the connections are not corroded. My bet is its a bad ground or bad battery.

 

that's all in my guide ;-)

 

You need to do a series of Voltage drop tests across the circuit and this will pinpoint the exact location of the problem.

Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) on DC setting. If you don't have one, they can be had for $30 or less these days.

Start by putting one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the solenoid post at the other end of the positive battery cable. If you have a high voltage like 9 Volts while an assitant is turning the key to the start position, then the battery cable is bad or has a poor connection. The reason to put the lead probe on the posts of these connections is so that you are testing conductivity between the connector and the post as well as the cable itself.

If your voltage was low across that cable, then move on down the circuit by putting your lead probes on the posts of the solenoid and again have your assistant hit the key. If there is a high voltage across the solenoid, then remove the small wire from the solenoid and check the voltage from there to the negative battery post to ensure that you are getting 12 Volts or so from the switch. If you do get good voltage from the switch and the voltage across the solenoid was high, then the problem is the solenoid.

Just continue down the circuit this way, using the DVM to check each link in the chain. Whereever you find the high voltage across a link in the chain, that is your culprit.

Even if you don't understand Ohms law, following these instructions will pinpoint your problem.

Good luck,

 

I forgot to mention that i have also replaced the ground and the neutral start switch and still the problem remains. i also got a new battery about a year ago so i dont think it would be that but ill check. thanks for your help

 

How is your solenoid connected to the inner fender? It grounds through the mounting lugs. If you are using sheet metal screws, then you should be fine, but if you are using bolts with nuts on the other side, you may not be getting a good ground. Make sure the solenoid is grounded properly. You can test it by running a temporary wire from the negative battery terminal to one of the mounting screws and try cranking the engine.

 

I'm telling you, you need to do some troubleshooting! Replacing parts at random because someone else had the same symptoms and replaced a particular part is just throwing money and time at the problem unnecesarily. Proper troubleshooting technique may very well find the problem and get it fixed with no money spent.

Do you understand my instructions? If not, tell me what part you don't understand and I will clarify.

 

Nice write up. (Nobody listens.)

 

The link offered by kali does give a good method for troubleshooting the circuit although I really don't like seeing people use jumpers for troubleshooting. In the hands of a savvy and careful troubleshooter a jumper wire is a very helpful troubleshooting instrument. More often than not, however, I see more stuff destroyed with a jumper than stuff fixed.

I equate a jumper for troubleshooting with a hammer for repair. A hammer is a very powerful and valuable tool in the hands of someone who knows when and how to use it. In the wrong hands, however, more stuff will be damaged than fixed.

There is a reason that the Voltage Drop method is the ASE preferred method for troubleshooting starter and charging circuits.