Finaly got some time to work on the car this week and iam done with work for a couple months, just gotta go to class for a semester and iam finished with school for good. Well I pulled off the front end and had a lot of fun with stripped bolts and seized bolts on the bumper.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang081.jpg
Then I moved onto the fenders and it was going great till I did the drivers side and that took up the rest of the day. The guy must of used an impact gun or something because one of nuts wasn't even holding the bottom of the panel, it went right through and was locked on the bolt. Anyway I got it off with a fight. Here is a couple picks of the cowl.
Passenger side:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang083.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang087.jpg
Drivers side:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang084.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang086.jpg

I took a better look at where the floor pans connect to the toe boards and didn't before realize how bad it was rusted out. There is a patch on it, I got a closer look with a light and it is rusted out pretty bad..
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang079.jpg

I did a quick look over the floor pans to the back and only noticed a little hole so far:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/o...Mustang082.jpg

I didn't expect this much rust when I took on this project but now that iam commited I will have to fix this cancer before it gets any worse. I haven't looked into new floor, frame rails, pans, toe boards and cowls yet but now that I have more time I will get right on it. My one roomate said "this so called restoration project has turned out to mass destruction" and just laughed at me..
I will have to ripe apart the dash next and check out the firewall. Iam going to tackle the horrid vinyl top as well. I was never a fan of that option anyway and if there is rust under it I wanna know.
My plan was to ripe out the engine and tranny next but that might get delayed a bit. Iam going to talk to my mechanic right away and get my block machined at the shop right away to.
I have also been getting a list together on new suspension. I will have updates on that at a later time but I will probably replace just about everything. Once I have time to tackle the suspension I will move on to converting to disk breaks and upgrading to a aluminium drive shaft and the diff to a 9".

 

I Got most of my interior ripped out now and iam just working on getting the dash all apart but iam curious about the driver side and passenger side doors in my 66. I know they are clipped on but they seem like they don't wanna budge. I tried to pry them off but I don't break the clips. Any ideas before I end up breaking something I don't want to?

Oh I did a little more research to on replacing my cowl, toe boards, Frame Rails, and pans and I was starting to lean towards a proffesional to replace them because of my lack of knowledge and experience in those fields..

 

I suggest getting a door panel puller tool. Looks like a spatula and help from tearing the clips up. NPD catalog page 241, part number C-T1. I have used them for years and really helps. You could also use a chisel or big screw driver if you are careful.

P.S. Your signature pic is great motivation in lot of ways!

 

It has been a slow week on the mustang this week but I went around and gathered a bunch of tools to drop the tranny and lift the engine.
I managed to get the door apart with a screw driver and didn't damage a thing.
I started to take apart my transmission but was wondering about something. First off it doesn't have a drain plug. hmm. I don't have anything to suck out the tranny fluid so this might turn into a mess. So iam curious, as soon as I unbolt all the bellhousing bolts and start to pull the jack back its going to leak everywhere right?
I also stopped as was wondering about the engine as well. I don't have another jack to support the engine while i pull the tranny off but i think I will just attach the hoist to the engine and support it that way.
One thing I just realized I forgot while I was typing this was I didn't buy new bolts for the engine leveler or buy new bolts for the engine stand even. DOH!
Oh well, I guess I will have to make a detour tommorow and get those..

 

tranny will only leak out the back of it, stuff arag in it and duct tape well till you can have it pumped, or while is in the air put a drain pan under the back and remove duct tape, all but some of it will come out, also if all else fails, drop the pan, or go and buy a hand siphon pump while you get those bolts

 

Well Iam pretty much setup for taking both out now. Just wondering a few things though since this is the first time ive done this on my own. I was wondering about hooking up a leveler to my engine. On the heads there is 1/4" 1" deep holes up near the valve covers on each side. Would it be wise to use these for lifting the engine out. Would they be able to withstand the weight you think?
Was wondering about the transmission as well. This will be a first time dropping one out as well and got one quick question. After I take the cross-member out and all the weight is on the jack. Do I take the bell housing bolts off the engine or do I take the bolts from the tranny to the bellhousing off first. Then can I just slide the jack back till the input shaft is clear and drop it down to the ground?

 

you can pull it all as one unit too.

 

After a little test run it looks like I will probably use the 7/16 holes for the leveler on top of the heads because it seemed to sit best there.
Yeah I thought about that but I don't have a whole ton of room to move the crane around and the car is already like 4 feet in the air so getting under the car with the creeper isn't very difficult. I figure I gotta get it apart anyway to put the engine on the stand for now so why not just pop the tranny out while the car is in the air

 

Use the bolt holes in the ends of the heads. If your brackets and accessories are in the way remove tham. The farther apart the lift points, the better the leveller will work. Also, I will be very surprised if your hoist can lift the engine high enough to come out with the car 4 feet in the air. You will need to lower the car. Set your leveller up like this:

 

Well after 9 weeks of hell and getting kicked out by my landlord Iam back on my feet.... I just had to rebuild my computer after it decieded to burn up like a christmis tree.. It has been a tough couple months but I finaly finished school for good and got my 66 back in a garage I can work in. I thought I would have had more time for the stang but I had to take night classes as well as day for the whole semester.
I have been busy stripping the front end still getting everything off but I have a lot of questions but nobody really around to help me out so I thought I would ask you guys.
First question is about a 347 engine. I can probably get a block still for a good deal but was wondering if I had to do anything drastic to get this in. First is, should I reinforce the engine mounts and or put some type of 4 link in the back to stabalize the car. Reasons I ask is I got a lot of grief from a couple of friends, saying the car would be all over the road if I was to put a 347 into it. They kept telling me I will put to much power into it and how the car weighs so little that its not a good idea. My idea of a muscle car isn't a 289, when I had the 289 it felt great to drive but I think it lacked power... I will have to change the whole drivetrain if I go with the 347 but iam ancy on doing it.. These past couple months have been back in forth to change it to a muscle car or a classic but my gut keeps telling me the 347.
Also I was looking around and thinking about putting a new suspension in when I finish restoring the engine bay as well but iam a little lost on what to get. I will be looking into disk breaks as well because the drums have been taking apart already and like hell am I putting them back together...
Iam also debating on either power steering, rack-in-pinion or some type of steering box setup, which do you guys think is the best???
Its good to finaly be able to get back on this sight it feels like it has been a while