I'm installing an Edelbrock 1406 (600 cfm) in a 65 coupe with a 302. Instructions say don't hook up the hot wire to the coil or generator but a line that's powered by the ignition switch.

I'm a mechanical geek and weak on this electrical stuff. Where is the best place to hook up the hot side of the choke? Hopefully I'm not running in through the dash. Thanks!

 

You can hookmit up to the ignition switch terminal an the coil. I THINK IT IS THE FARTHERS FORWARD LITTLE TERMINAL. im not positive so you may want to check it with a meter or test light.

You dont hook it to the coild because the coil is only 9v and the carb needs 12v

 

I recommend the heater blower hot wire. It's already in the engine bay in your car, so it's easy to access. Otherwise, any switched hot wire under the dash.

 

I used the blower motor hot wire

 

i think mine was hooked to an alternator wire, but with a generator i dont know how that changes things.

 

Any full voltage ignition switched source will work. There are several resistance wires, or were typically running to the coil, that do not have full 12-14V when the key is turned on. You do not want that because the chokes works on a heat spring powered by voltage. Low voltage, slow opening. You also do not want a hot all the time wire because you want the choke to start opening when you turn the key on, not be open all the time.

The ignition terminal on the solenoid may not be a good place to tap in if you are still running points style dizzy. The I terminal was designed to give full voltage to the coil during the start cycle (which is normally resistance voltage 9 volts or so when the car is running). This was to give more voltage to the coil get a "hot" spark during cranking. Check it, but I think that the I post will be dead when not starting (or it will be low voltage if you are running a points ignition).

Start the engine, check the voltage, then turn the engine off and check it again. If it is full voltage when your engine is running and off when the engine is stopped, tap in there.

 

"Any full voltage ignition switched source will work"-> that is correct.
when you have 12V at ignition you'll be sorted.
Even better idea is to use the STAT hookup on alternator as you mention. This way the choke will only run ('heat') when engine is running and not already when ignition is on. in most cases there's no difference as people usually don't leave ignition on when car is not running

as towards the starter selonoid and the ignition port 'I':
This is directly connected to the coil+. you can use this only if you have the resistor wire removed inside the dash as otherwise this port will only have 8V. this port usually feeds 12V from battery ONLY during start to the coil+ to help. Any other time it's the same as coil+

 

we spliced mine to a switched 12V wire coming off my alpine headunit

 

so your choke will only work when you have your radio on? sounds like you used the blue strip on them for the antenna to come up ?! LOL