Recommendation for new suspension?
I am about to replace all the suspension in my car. I want the car to be lower than factory, but not a low rider.
I also want the feeling of a late model car as much as possible. FYI - Power steering is installed. - though gutted.
Car will have a late model 5.0 EFI or built up 302. Car is an automatic and will not be raced, though I'm sure I'll drive it hard occassionaly.
I have read all the threads I can and there a million ideas. There are also kits out there I have seen that seem reasonable.
Oh, and what exactly is a 1" Cobra drop? What does this consist of?
My thoughts for the rear:
Rear
- (from CJ Pony Parts)
- 5 Leaf kit, includes leaf springs, shackles, spring bolts and u-bolts. They have a 5 leaf mid eye, but not sure of it requires different installation parts.
- Pair of KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Front
- Suspension kit includes upper control arms, lower control arms, shock tower bumpers, coil spring saddles, coil spring insulators, coil springs, front sway bar end links, inner tie rod ends, front sway bar with bushings, outer tie rod ends, strut rod bushing kit, idler arm.
- This kit cost $600 since I have power steering
- Add pair of KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Should I focus on buying a kit that converts all bushings to poly? Is that needed?
Is all this hard for a novice to install?
Last question - will this give me good performance for what I am looking for - not racing, but great handling.
Thanks!!!
I also want the feeling of a late model car as much as possible. FYI - Power steering is installed. - though gutted.Car will have a late model 5.0 EFI or built up 302. Car is an automatic and will not be raced, though I'm sure I'll drive it hard occassionaly.
I have read all the threads I can and there a million ideas. There are also kits out there I have seen that seem reasonable.
Oh, and what exactly is a 1" Cobra drop? What does this consist of?
My thoughts for the rear:
Rear
- (from CJ Pony Parts)
- 5 Leaf kit, includes leaf springs, shackles, spring bolts and u-bolts. They have a 5 leaf mid eye, but not sure of it requires different installation parts.
- Pair of KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Front
- Suspension kit includes upper control arms, lower control arms, shock tower bumpers, coil spring saddles, coil spring insulators, coil springs, front sway bar end links, inner tie rod ends, front sway bar with bushings, outer tie rod ends, strut rod bushing kit, idler arm.
- This kit cost $600 since I have power steering
- Add pair of KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Should I focus on buying a kit that converts all bushings to poly? Is that needed?
Is all this hard for a novice to install?
Last question - will this give me good performance for what I am looking for - not racing, but great handling.
Thanks!!!
i got my suspension from Mustangs Plus. They sell a complete starter kit that includes front and rear and they have a ton of options and upgrades.
the mideye leafs go on just like regular leafs. i would also put some thought in some disk brakes if not already equipped. the suspension is something you can do yourself. i recommend going poly bushing instead of rubber.
the mideye leafs go on just like regular leafs. i would also put some thought in some disk brakes if not already equipped. the suspension is something you can do yourself. i recommend going poly bushing instead of rubber.
I recommend against the M+ kits. They use polyurethane for all of the bushings, which makes for a very squeaky ride. If you're not racing, you don't really need poly bushings anyway. Keep everything rubber except for the sway bar bushings, which don't really make much noise.
Also, 5 leaf springs are going to be STIFF. If this is a car you plan on driving a lot, or if your roads are anything less than perfect, I'd recommend 4.5 leaf springs. That's what I'm using on my 67fb, and I'm very happy with them. Firm ride, and they handle very well, but not jarring.
For the front I'd recommend new control arms (if yours are worn, it's not worth it to rebuild them), roller spring perches from DazeCars, 560lb 1" drop springs from Opentracker (620's will be very stiff, especially on a 66), new rubber coil spring insulators, Shelby UCA drop (not "Cobra" drop), all new manual steering components (including a roller idler arm from OpenTracker), 15/16" sway bar, export brace, and a monte carlo bar.
If you've got the money, I'd recommend Edelbrock IAS shocks. I upgraded earlier this year from KYB Gas-A-Justs and I'm very happy with them. They handle better, but they soak up road variations better, allowing for a smoother ride without sacrificing handling.
The Shelby drop is a relocation of the upper control arm mounting holes to provide better suspension geometry. It gives you negative camber in corners, keeping the tires flatter on the road. It also lowers the roll center of the car below ground level, which helps eliminate body roll while cornering. This is the cheapest, easiest, and most effective single handling mod you can do to your car.
If you don't have them already, you should be looking at a front disc brake conversion. No sense building a car that will go and turn but won't stop. Drums are fine for daily traffic, but they're erratic and will fade quickly in hard driving situations.
As far as difficulty goes, it's all stuff you can do in your driveway, as long as you have the right tools. The only special tool you'll need is a coil spring compressor. Do a search on those as there are multiple types available, but only a couple that are really safe to use.
Also, 5 leaf springs are going to be STIFF. If this is a car you plan on driving a lot, or if your roads are anything less than perfect, I'd recommend 4.5 leaf springs. That's what I'm using on my 67fb, and I'm very happy with them. Firm ride, and they handle very well, but not jarring.
For the front I'd recommend new control arms (if yours are worn, it's not worth it to rebuild them), roller spring perches from DazeCars, 560lb 1" drop springs from Opentracker (620's will be very stiff, especially on a 66), new rubber coil spring insulators, Shelby UCA drop (not "Cobra" drop), all new manual steering components (including a roller idler arm from OpenTracker), 15/16" sway bar, export brace, and a monte carlo bar.
If you've got the money, I'd recommend Edelbrock IAS shocks. I upgraded earlier this year from KYB Gas-A-Justs and I'm very happy with them. They handle better, but they soak up road variations better, allowing for a smoother ride without sacrificing handling.
The Shelby drop is a relocation of the upper control arm mounting holes to provide better suspension geometry. It gives you negative camber in corners, keeping the tires flatter on the road. It also lowers the roll center of the car below ground level, which helps eliminate body roll while cornering. This is the cheapest, easiest, and most effective single handling mod you can do to your car.
If you don't have them already, you should be looking at a front disc brake conversion. No sense building a car that will go and turn but won't stop. Drums are fine for daily traffic, but they're erratic and will fade quickly in hard driving situations.
As far as difficulty goes, it's all stuff you can do in your driveway, as long as you have the right tools. The only special tool you'll need is a coil spring compressor. Do a search on those as there are multiple types available, but only a couple that are really safe to use.
A few things to consider...
-Rack and Pinion steering (feels more like new cars but a PIA to install)
-Shelby drop along with quality upper and lower control arms, adjustable strut rod, better springs, shocks, etc.
-Coil over rearend (feels more like new cars and you can get a four link setup)
-Sway bars
-Possible quick steer kit if you stay original steering
- Roller spring perches
All of this may be over kill depending on what you want to do, but this will give you a Classic body with modern suspension.
-Rack and Pinion steering (feels more like new cars but a PIA to install)
-Shelby drop along with quality upper and lower control arms, adjustable strut rod, better springs, shocks, etc.
-Coil over rearend (feels more like new cars and you can get a four link setup)
-Sway bars
-Possible quick steer kit if you stay original steering
- Roller spring perches
All of this may be over kill depending on what you want to do, but this will give you a Classic body with modern suspension.
Never had a problem with my Mustangs Plus Suspension. I made sure to properly grease all my poly bushing when I installed them and they never made any noise.
I agree that 5 leaf springs will be abit stiffer than you probably want.
I agree that 5 leaf springs will be abit stiffer than you probably want.
I also agree that 5 leaf's are a bit stiff for a street driver.
Like said, 5 leaf is stiff, 4.5 might be better for you. Mideyes are good for lowering it, since that is what you are looking for.
620's are also very stiff, so I'm going to agree with Star with the -1" 560's. Roller spring saddles are great and worth the money.
Don't get poly-type bushings IMO. Stick with rubber or midolene (a stiffer type, I know laurelmountain offers them).
Shelbydrop is a must while the suspension is apart. I fk'd mine up
! Don't ask me how, I even used a steel template...
And, for tools, you'll need an assortment of sockets and wrenches, perferably an impact gun, an internal coil spring compressor (1-piece!), floor jack and jack stands, a sawzaw and plenty of blades (or a minimal 6.5" cutting wheel), a mallett, and a 17/32" drillbit (9/16" works too)... Thats all I can think off...
620's are also very stiff, so I'm going to agree with Star with the -1" 560's. Roller spring saddles are great and worth the money.
Don't get poly-type bushings IMO. Stick with rubber or midolene (a stiffer type, I know laurelmountain offers them).
Shelbydrop is a must while the suspension is apart. I fk'd mine up
! Don't ask me how, I even used a steel template...And, for tools, you'll need an assortment of sockets and wrenches, perferably an impact gun, an internal coil spring compressor (1-piece!), floor jack and jack stands, a sawzaw and plenty of blades (or a minimal 6.5" cutting wheel), a mallett, and a 17/32" drillbit (9/16" works too)... Thats all I can think off...


