Lifter/valve noise
I replaced a rocker arm a few months back, and made the final adjustment using the method Kalli described. It worked fine, and I haven't had any problems since. I didn't have an extra set of valve covers to cut up, so I dammed up the bottom edge of the head with a rolled up towel (wedged between the head and the top of the exhaust manifold) to keep the oil from running all over. I only ran it a minute or so at a time. Very little mess. Just don't rev the engine.
At the same time I had an exhaust leak on the other side that initially sounded like a valve/lifter as well. New gasket fixed that.
If you can find a cheap stethoscope to borrow, it will help you nail down exactly where the problem is. Even a plastic kiddie one would probably work. It is amazing how well you can pinpoint the source of the tick. If you can't get a stethoscope you might try using a screwdriver instead (handle to your ear, blade on the valve cover or head).
Good luck.
*** By the time I finished my long post you had it solved. Congratulations!
At the same time I had an exhaust leak on the other side that initially sounded like a valve/lifter as well. New gasket fixed that.
If you can find a cheap stethoscope to borrow, it will help you nail down exactly where the problem is. Even a plastic kiddie one would probably work. It is amazing how well you can pinpoint the source of the tick. If you can't get a stethoscope you might try using a screwdriver instead (handle to your ear, blade on the valve cover or head).
Good luck.
*** By the time I finished my long post you had it solved. Congratulations!
Last edited by fishkg; Dec 30, 2008 at 04:20 PM. Reason: Problem solved
Don't use thread lock, heat releases thread lock. Install them to torque and then check them every couple of heat cycles until they maintain the torque. You could go out and spend your money on locking header bolts like Stage 8, but they will eventually maintain the torque, it just takes a few cycles.
Kalli, your way works fine, it is just messy!
Kalli, your way works fine, it is just messy!
If you can find a cheap stethoscope to borrow, it will help you nail down exactly where the problem is. Even a plastic kiddie one would probably work. It is amazing how well you can pinpoint the source of the tick. If you can't get a stethoscope you might try using a screwdriver instead (handle to your ear, blade on the valve cover or head).
Good luck.
*** By the time I finished my long post you had it solved. Congratulations!
Last edited by Oxnard Montalvo; Dec 30, 2008 at 06:38 PM.
you can make your own locking header bolts by drilling a small hole thru the head of each one, then use some thin stainless wire to tie bolts together in sets of two. they use this method on airplanes to keep bolts from backing out.
works great and costs virtually nothing. something similar to this
works great and costs virtually nothing. something similar to this
well i put in some new header bolts. thankfully i had a an extra set.
But unfortunatly i still have lifte noise. should i here them at all. it is less noticable but i still here the tick.
But unfortunatly i still have lifte noise. should i here them at all. it is less noticable but i still here the tick.
So i tightened all the header bolts and i still have lifter noise. could my gasket have gotten fried. it was only loose for a day. maybe 40 miles.
Is it common to have lifter noise after break in?
Is it common to have lifter noise after break in?
Take a good look at the old gasket. If it is the steel reinforced paper or impregnated paper type, loose bolts for as long as yours were loose will have damaged the gasket(s). WHat type of new gasket are you going to use?
These Remflex gaskets are by far the best header gaskets you will ever use.
https://www.vichubbard.com/auto-part...em-rf3004.html
https://www.vichubbard.com/auto-part...em-rf3004.html


