I was just thinking, after all these years and several cars, I really never had to do this! My previous cars came from known pedigrees and I really never verified numbers. Exactly how is this done? Is this engine block number matched with the chasis number from the door sticker or VIN? What are the two numbers that are "matched".

Also, is it true that there is no way to prove that the 289 in a 65/66 coupe is the factory original engine? I understand that some use dates of engine/chasis in proximity but is there any confirmed proof that a 65 coupe with a 65 289 are original issues?

 

You are correct. The engines were not stamped with the VIN's except for the 289 HP. Even then I think some 289 HP's did not get stamped. The date is the only thing to go by and that still won't tell you if it is the original engine.

 

Ford did a half vin in 68 only way to tell on the older cars is the casting code should be a month or few before the cars build date.The block casting code is be hide the starter.

 

Is there any way, such as a mirror or paper/clay impression, to pick up that VIN without removing the starter?

 

It would take you less time to undo the couple bolts and dismount the starter than it would to maneuver a mirror or clay to get an impression. The starter is an easy thing to take off and put back on.

 

My last attempt at removing 15 year old siezed bolts wasn't a happy one. Big PIA. With a mirror, my hands won't even get dirty! No big deal, I'll give a look.

 

The only other way to prove an original motor is through provenance.
For example a documented one owner car, or something like that.

Otherwise it is just date code matching for the 65's.

 

i'm trying to do get my starter out as well, had to use a rubber mallet but it worked, can't get the top one off. any suggestions?

 

got the date code, 5E21 but my car has a build date of april 23, is it possible this is the original engine? seems wierd it would have been replaced with an engine that just happened to made a month after the build date.