Ok, after a year of body work, epoxy, high build and countless hours sanding i am ready for paint. If i continue nit-picking i will just screw somthing up.

I want to paint in pieces but am told that there could be a color blending issue. i am painting royal blue (94 ford truck color) using PPG Delron DBC top coat and PPG Concept 2042 clear. Is there any reason why i cant paint doors, fenders, hood ect off the car?

Thanks

 

Ther is no reason you can't. Just make sure if using a metallic that the pieces are positioned as they will be on the car. If they are not (like laying the door down or standing the hood up) the metallic will lay wrong and look slightly different than the surrounding pieces.

I would also try to paint it all on the same day. Temp, humidity and gun pressure will also give the pieces a different look if done on different days.

Also, be sure to tape the edges and such when putting it back together. Nothing like laying down a great job and then nicking the stuff putting it back on.

Jeff

 

have you thought about spraying the jams first so you could put the doors and such on and spray it together. If not I dont see why you should have too much of a problem as long as you do it all together so you arent miss matching different pots of paint.

 

as for metallic i dont think it is (color blind with metallic's), just heavy with pearl. Thanks for the tape tip, i was worried about that. i am painting in the garage and the temp is not pristine for paint but i dont have much of a choice.

I am going to do jams and such first, doors on is an option. or maby i am just thinking to much........

 

Have you fitted the doors, fenders and hood prior to doing the body work? It is tough to do after it is painted! It is a lot of work, but these cars have to be fitted, even the rear quarter extensions and headlight eyebrows. I learned this the hard way. I have painted one together with the hood and deck lid off and apart. The advantage of painting in pieces is not having to get around the whole car at one time and if you do have an issue with a panel you can adjust more easily. On the other hand if the car is together, banging up the panels when trying to fit are not an issue.
Probably more important to me is using the appropriate reducers/ hardeners with the temperature. You may already know this, but I didn't. You think you know how to sand now, wait till you have to sand a new paint job off!
Good luck!

 

Painting the same day is always a good idea, so you can keep the same flow...
I always paint with all removable panels off the car...
Saves materials and taping time
Also, by painting those panel flat, the clear will flow better with less orange peel.

Typically, you do the jambs with the hood/trunk lid underneaths first.
If you don't have a paint both, painting first thing in the morning on weekends is a good idea since there is less activity around, thus less trash in the air...

Good luck.

 

A novice should fit the panels up first and leave them on the car. Doors and fenders should be where they will be before you paint. I can live wit the hood off and maybe even the trunk lid. If you don't have a few people to help you install,and align the freshly painted panels you should place them on first. So many factors go in this decision. You need space to position these parts for paint. Get yourself a decent quality High Velocity Low pressure gravity feed paint gun. You don't need a $500 gun. A decent $150 gun will work. I even recommend you buy an even cheaper gun for primer shooting. The expensive guns are required if you shoot three cars a week for a living. If you are a garage novice, the inexpensive guns will work. Also, don't woory about painting in a garge instead of a booth. If the garage is well lit and you do some basic housekeeping before you start, you will be fine. A trick is to lightly wet down the garage floor before you start. This aids in keeping down dust. You'll have a lot of fun painting your car. But an earlier post stated, care should be given towards ambient temperature. Ask the counter guy at the local auto paint store for information sheets that will tell you how much reducers and hardeners are required at what temps. It's not rocket science. My motto has always been, "what you lack in experience, you make up for in caring". Have fun.

 

Just my $.02. Pay close attenition to your air pressure settings, metallic paints can change tone with variation in pressure settings. Also, watch your lapping so as not "tiger stripe" your paint job.

Good Luck!!

 

i never tried but I hear putting the doors back on is a nightmare and needs ten hands. So I'd be too afraid to nick the hole car when putting them back on.

 

If you back paint, make sure you tape it off good after its set a couple of days. Its easier to do this first. Also, the number of coats, speed of the hand, distance and overlap needs to be the same on all pieces, also the air pressure needs to be the same, so its a good idea to spray a test panel first. If not, then its easy to get things a little off color. I usually do a 50% overlap on the spray keeping everything moving from front to back, even on the browls and extensions (I do not do this on the jams and such). Another trick, make sure the fitment is the way you want it before you take the car apart and scribe the metal around the hinges with a carbide tip, usually at a right angle. Most of the time two lines is all that is needed. This is my guide when the car goes back together. It makes panel alignment very easy and you will be the only one that will ever know. I leave the deck hinges on the car and wire them down and the door hinges on the door. You need about 5 sets of sawhorses and an extra pair of hands when you start spraying. Also, if you use the same gun for the clear, take it apart and clean it before spraying the clear, otherwise it may puke on your new paint job. Base/clear is very forgiving and most of the trash will go away when color sanded and buffed, unlike enamels (which is still my favorite).