Sorry Kalli, I meant Andrew


see underlined

 

Please Note: with the influx of cheap parts coming from China Electrical parts can be bad right out of the box This includes Ignition switches and Starter relay's

Buy Quality parts .......look for New Old Stock of Motorcraft & Echlin parts or Motorcraft solenoid off Cars/trucks in Junkyards.

I have the luxury of having many small towns around me that have old service stations and parts places with stock that is 20 years old.

There are plenty of N.O.S. parts places on the net.

www.greensales.com is one

 

the relay clicks for as long as i'm turning the key. tried connecting red end of jumper cable to positive side of solenoid (left), then other red end of jumper cable to other end with the key at start, got sparks. tried red end to positive side of solenoid, then other red end to little S end, got blue spark.

 

Have you tried replaceing the battery with a know good one or checking the battery voltage during cranking? Try that first. Inspect the cable that goes to the starter from the solenoid to make sure its not shorted to the exhaust. Also remember when you connect the battery side of the solenoid to the starter side you will get some sparks. The starter takes several hundred amps to turn an engine over If you could take a few voltage readings you shouldn't have any trouble repairing this problem. Good luck

 

i think it's my starter. i just took my other car's battery (brand new battery) and connected some jumper cables between the battery and the battery wires on my stang, got the relay clicking but no cranking. i was moving the starter around some before all this happened trying to find the date codes on my engine. gonna take the starter down to autozone soon, thanks for the help

 

im still having problems with mine. i followed the steps that everyone suggested to diagnose the problem. thought it was a bad starter that was grounding out so i replaced it. but still no luck. also check this issue out that im having!!!!!

with the starter in the car, the tab on the back of the starter (where you connect the postive cable coming from the starter solenoid) is grounding out. i tested it with a mutli meter and it confirmed when i touch the tab and touch any ground on the car the circuit closes and the multmeter beeps. before doing this test i fund out bc i blew a 50amp fuse.

can anyone explain why my brand new starter is grounding out when that tab should be for the postive wire lead.

 

If you test it with a multimeter it should show a negative at the post. The starter is a load in the circuit. The negative (or ground) travels through the case to the negative brush through the armature out the posotive brush to the post you are checking. If it didn't check a ground there the starter would be open and nothing would happen when posotive voltage was connected to it.

 

vescotech, so are you saying the post on the back of the starter is going to be tested as ground. but once you put a positive lead to it, it will turn on the starter? (i still dont get how that would work)
but anyway if thats the case, why am i still blowing fuses when i hook it up this way? can my wiring on the starter solenoid be wrong?

also the "S" terminal on the stater solenoid gets 12volts even when the ignition is off. should it be like that? wouldnt that terminal only get 12volts when you turn the ignition on. hence giving power to the solenoid.

 

In your signiture it says 5.0 fuel injected. Is this the car you are working on? If it is there may be some things changed on your car from stock. The s terminal should only have voltage when turned to start. Your solenoid may have been changed when the conversion was done. Electronic ignition doesn't use the I terminal. What does the 50 amp fuse go to? (It may have been installed on the conversion) More info on your car would be helpful.

 

ok i have a fox body 5.0 engine in the car. with a painless wire harness harness for the engine. the starter is from a 1989 mustang with a remote mounted solenoid. the solenoid looks to be the one from the original 67 mustang. everything was working fine a few months ago before i took out the old wiring. over the winter i redid the whole chasis wire harness with an after market one. i also relocated the battery and solenoid to the trunk. btw the "I" terminal was connected when the car worked. however im not sure if it was actually doing anything. anyway, so the fuse is connected inline from the starter tab on the solenoid going to the starter. this was done as per the instructions, even though i know the original way the car was wired up didnt have that.