Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

restoration questions

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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 05:28 PM
  #1  
mustangracer91's Avatar
mustangracer91
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From: Oklahoma, denial
Default restoration questions

Hey guys, I'm a newbie, and I'm in the middle of a massive restoration effort on my '68 mustang coupe. I've seen in magazines and on ebay different kits for suspension and sheet metal, and I've got a couple questions...

1)I need to do a FULL rebuild of my front steering and suspension and while I'm there, I'd like to upgrade my steering column to a tilt, and put in a better than stock power steering system, any recommendations or things to avoid?

2)I am in need of new quarters, floor pans and trunk, as well as front sheetmetal or fiberglass, any recommedations or things to avoid?

3) I've seen alot of stuff for sale on ebay from Laurel Mountain Mustang, are they any good, or any experiences with them?

I appriciate any and all help!
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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mortman
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Suspension, you have many options just depends on what you want to do with the car. The LMM suspension is great for the price to keep things stock if that's your goal. Steering, i am sure others will chime in here but i have heard great thing about up grading to R&P but for the price you may as well go with the mustang II setup, again it depends on what you want to do. for sheet metal - three words National parts depot.
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 08:20 PM
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Mustangs Unlimited FTW
or if there is a small local place thats even better, theres a small Mom and Pop Mustang Resto place 5 miles from my house, called Dad's Classic Cars, and its realy great, see if theres one in Oklahoma..
LMM took over a month to ship my interior
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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fakesnakes
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These guys are in Oklahoma City:

http://www.classicautopartsgroup.com/mustang/hazel.exe
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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From: Texas, duh!?
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I replaced both rear qrtrs. on my 66 and the best parts I found actually came from "Dynacorn", most aftermarket dealers can get parts from them. Go ahead and get full length floor pans (left and right seperate) and trim to fit where needed. All aftermarket fender and hoods will require fitting to make them work. Keep watching ebay for original parts if you have time to find them.
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 11:01 PM
  #6  
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rmodel65
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can i have the Merkur? :P pics please
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 04:12 AM
  #7  
mustangracer91's Avatar
mustangracer91
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From: Oklahoma, denial
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Originally Posted by mortman
Suspension, you have many options just depends on what you want to do with the car. The LMM suspension is great for the price to keep things stock if that's your goal. Steering, i am sure others will chime in here but i have heard great thing about up grading to R&P but for the price you may as well go with the mustang II setup, again it depends on what you want to do.
A little directional explination about my mustang...I kept this mustang from being scrapped, and it's just a shell, so original isn't important to me at all. I'm wanting to make it into a fair weather DD/weekend road trip car. I want to take it to carlisle when it's done. Interior won't be stock, but I want it to have that look and feel keeping any of the upgrades subtle and modern.
I'm looking to do the shelby suspension mod, and as far as everything else goes for the suspension, I want something slightly upgraded from stock, but I don't have any welding skills, so I need it to be bolt in. Does anyone have any experiences with the "grabatrack" stuff?

Just wondering, I've seen some floorpans that have full length, both sides, and are one complete piece including the transmission tunnel, are those better or worse than the LFT and RT full length ones?
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:09 AM
  #8  
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92ponyranger
 
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From: Texas, duh!?
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Originally Posted by mustangracer91
Just wondering, I've seen some floorpans that have full length, both sides, and are one complete piece including the transmission tunnel, are those better or worse than the LFT and RT full length ones?
If memory serves me, the whole floor pan is for the vert version. I think they specify this due to having to put the top down to install the full pan, but if yours is a shell, maybe you could install it from under the car provided there is no drive train. Just make sure the car is level and blocked BEFORE you remove the old pans, if not the car can twist and the new one will be jacked up.
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:36 AM
  #9  
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Nick.Simonds
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From: Houston, TX
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Originally Posted by fakesnakes
I have been here and bought some stuff. Good guys. Prices are a tad high, but you are paying for picking it up then and there.
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