Are these good battery cables to use? They are 4 gauge copper. What size are the originals? The originals were not copper though right? Also, what length is needed from the starter solenoid to the starter? 67 with a 351 block. What cables are needed from where to where? Here is what I think I need-correct me if I'm wrong.

1. From neg side of battery to frame-grnd
2. Engine block to frame-grnd
3. Pos side of bat to starter solenoid
4. From starter solenoid to starter

Thanks.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

#4 will work, but a little over kill won' t hurt. I like 1/0 cable and make my own ends, unfortunately color (red/black) coding is not an option.

 

Is too:P I work at Napa and I make cables periodically, in addition to the premade cables in stock. We've got premade and bulk in both red and black. All of it's copper; I don't even know where you'd get non-copper cable thick enough to do the job.

IMO, those Taylor wires are a bit overkill. Not in gauge, but with the whole braided stainless insulator. I'd recommend a standard 2ga copper cable (like morty said, a little overkill doesn't hurt).

According to my computer, the ground from the battery to the block is about 30", the positive to the solenoid is 10", and solenoid to starter is 36". Can't guarantee those are right, but it should get you ballparked.

 

I was looking at a cable that went form the battery to the solenoid and it looked to be al, not cu.

SO the grd wire from the battery goes to the engine block, not the chassis? Probably doesn't matter if I take it from the bat to the block then to the chassis for a good grnd?

May have to take a trip to napa. Thanks.

 

i wud do like 2ga atleast instead of 4, and those taylors arent needed besides looks

 

Yes, battery negative goes to the block, usually to a bolt on the p-side head or the alternator bracket. This gives you the best ground path from the starter. The block also should be grounded to the firewall, although I use an extra pigtail from the battery negative to ground to the chassis.

 

Right on and can't be stressed enough. Having a solid ground will save chasing gremlins later.

 

Yeah, I've seen a lot of electrical problems (flashing headlights, gauge issues, etc) traced to a corroded or missing engine ground strap.

 

Ok great info. I will plan on running the neg bat to the block, from the block to the firewall, and again from the neg bat to the chassis. I am one for overkill.

I did look at the battery cables from NAPA (online) and they were all 4 gauge wire too. I guess that is standard for the size to use.

 

hmmm i ground from bat to engine block and from bat to car fenderwall (chassis)

should i ground from fenderwall (chassis) to engine block also?