I recently built a 289 and installed it in my 66 coupe, which was originally a 6cyl. Sprint I got from a guy that needed some cash, so he sold me his basket case. Anyways, I have been trying to start it for a couple days now and am running out of ideas. I get intermittent pops, but nothing consistant. I have played with the timing, replaced all ignition components other than the ign switch and stock wiring harness (Which I had to lengthen because of the 6 Cyl. being shorter- other than that I ASSumed that this harness would work. I have orderd a new harness for a V-8, but I'd still like to get it running ASAP as I am going back to Iraq in a week) I replaced the points with a Pertronix. I double and triple checked the plug wires. I don't have a volt meter so I haven't been able to check voltages at the coil while cranking. Everything I've read says I have everything hooked up properly. The sucker cranks fine, and I just got my Edelbrock 600 cfm carb rebuilt, thinking that might be the culprit, but to no avail... The brown wire I believe on the "I" terminal of the solenoid looks a little old and maybe bad, But I would think if this were bad, it wouldn't fire at all...Am I wrong? What am I missing? Should I just cut my losses and wait for the new harness (engine guage feed). Does it sound like this is my problem?

 

this will not be easy to diagnose :-)

1. that brown wire ('I'). this should lead to coil+ when you still use contact breakers. the only thing that does is to supply +12V _while_ starting to yur coild. the coil usually only gets 8.5V+. during start it just needs more.
As you said you have a pertronix ignition check the manual of it, as pertronix II (at least them) need always 12V to coil so you have to delete your resistor wire.
for a QUICK test (and please read this as TEST ONLY). quickly hook up a cable from battery+ directly to coil+.
See if it starts/runs then. do not leave this cable there as this will fry your coil. only hook up, try to start. when its running remove the cable again. if not remove as well.
if that helped you need to check on cabling from ignition switch to coil+. do not forget to remove this again

2. how did you adjust timing if the engine doesn't run ??? you might be 180 degrees out on the distributor.
basically when your engine is turned to TDC the rotor in distributor needs to point to spark plug 1 wire.
from there the cables on cap need to go anti clockwise in firing order. Engine is twice on TDC during a cycle
once for ignitiojn and once when it's pushing out the exhaust. So I'd recommend turning the engine to TDC, pull the passenger side rocker cover and check on the rockers of #1 cylinder.
The valves for #1 should both be closed. you can see that easy because the pushrods are not pushing up the rocker causing the valve to open. you should be able to rattle the rockers a bit.
Compare with the other rockers, you'll now then if a valve is open or closed.
If one of the 2 is open, turn the engine another 360 degrees, to TDC again. Then the valves sghould be clsoed. This is #1 spark.
Check if in that poition rotor in distributor points to #1. if not. change so it does and hook up the spark plug wires from there anticlockwise in firing order.

3. the 289 can have two different firing orders.
stock is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8,
if you have an aftermarket cam it is likely to be 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

... enjoy ...

 

a) if you pull a plug are you getting sparky spark?

b) if you pump the throttle do you see the carb squirting fuel?

c) even though you have checked the wires countless times, is the distributor 180 deg. out/

props to you going back to the sandbox, we salute ya

 

so the engine turns it just doesnt start? if that is the case it may be your fuel pump or fuel lines, can you see or smell the fuel in the carb?

 

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm

 

I am getting fuel, the jets squirt just fine. What I mean by "adjusting the timing" is that I move the distributor, trying to get it to fire. I seem to get more intermittent pops at a certain location... I already put it at TDC and pointed it a #1... intermittent backfires. So I turned it 180deg. The Pertronix paperwork was very adament about keeping the resistor wire in line or it could damage the unit. I didn't know about the "alternate" firing order with an aftermarket cam... I don't remember the cam card saying anything about it... But this sounds like maybe it's my problem. When the weather clears a bit I am going to try that...Thanks.

 

I'm having the exact same issue. Actually, exact same set up. My 6 cyl went out, and I replaced it with a 289. I was wondering if you guys have any more ideas? I am going out to try the new firing order. I have a new V8 wiring harness, Accel Electronic Ignition, new plugs, wires, and cap, Holley on top (getting a rebuilt one soon), and a rebuilt tranny. It turns over, and fires, but won't run. I am continually getting backfire out the carb. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

i'm sorry, not trying to flame you here, but i dont really see where you are saying where the exact problem is. the title of the post says that the motor wont turn over. not turning over means that the starter is not engaging at all. turning over, meaning the crank is actually turning. Every internal combustion engine needs three basic things to run,
1)air
2)fuel
3)spark.

and you very well may be 180 out on the dizzy, this is what happened to me when i pulled it out when i installed my new manifold.

 

I think what he meant was it won't fire over... as in, it's cranking, but not wanting to run. Nonetheless, I'm having the same issues. I've tried turning the dizzy 180*, and all it did was backfire more.

 

Proper terminology is everything when one is asking TECHnical questions.

When we learn automotive's, our minds are set into motion on certain terminology.

ie: The use the term Flywheel means it is a Standard Transmission nut when we actually find out it is an automatic..The term Flexplate should be used.

Now regarding the topic ...see my diagram and link above.