using manual steering adapter
I've got a 67 that originally had power steering....after years of repairing it I decided to just cut the PS belt and do without.
I've seen the manual steering adapters that replace the control valve for about $120, but my question is...Is this my best option??? As far as handling/being tight goes, is it just as good as replacing the linkage with the original manual style?
Thoughts? Thanks.
I've seen the manual steering adapters that replace the control valve for about $120, but my question is...Is this my best option??? As far as handling/being tight goes, is it just as good as replacing the linkage with the original manual style?
Thoughts? Thanks.
I have the manual steering adapter. i have a new steering box new inner and outer tie-rod ends, new idler arm, and a new rag joint. the only things i have not replaced are the steering column and the center link. Also have all new front suspension. and I still have a bit of play in my steering system. I have been thinking about welding up the manual steering adapter to make sure there is no side to side movement in the adapter.
the stud that connects to the pitman arm has a round base like the one in the power valve. you can't move it with your hands. but i think the force from the steering box and fricition from road may make it move. That is why i'm thinking about welding it solid to eliminate any chance of movement.
Weld it solid to what?
Basically, the adapter takes the place of what would be a swivel ball stud on the end of a manual steering centerlink. It is a moveable ball stud for a reason. Even though there is play and swivel movement in all the components that bolt to the centerlink, there needs to be a slightly moveable stud connecting to the pitman arm to keep there from being any binding as the linkage moves back and forth and the suspension moves up and down. Making it a solid unit is not a good idea.
The manual steering adapter is just a copy of what Ford used on the early 1960's big Fords with manual steering. It is just designed down to fit the smaller linkage of a Mustang.
The ball stud in the adapter is mounted under spring pressure, tight enough to keep the play down to a minimum, but still allow the ball stud to swivel without binding. Because of this, there will always be a tiny bit more play in the adapter than if you converted to a manual steering centerlink.
http://www.stangerssite.com/manualadapter6770.html
Basically, the adapter takes the place of what would be a swivel ball stud on the end of a manual steering centerlink. It is a moveable ball stud for a reason. Even though there is play and swivel movement in all the components that bolt to the centerlink, there needs to be a slightly moveable stud connecting to the pitman arm to keep there from being any binding as the linkage moves back and forth and the suspension moves up and down. Making it a solid unit is not a good idea.
The manual steering adapter is just a copy of what Ford used on the early 1960's big Fords with manual steering. It is just designed down to fit the smaller linkage of a Mustang.
The ball stud in the adapter is mounted under spring pressure, tight enough to keep the play down to a minimum, but still allow the ball stud to swivel without binding. Because of this, there will always be a tiny bit more play in the adapter than if you converted to a manual steering centerlink.
http://www.stangerssite.com/manualadapter6770.html
the 65-70 cars use an add on p/s system with an external cylinder ram.
1971-1973 cars use a GM saginaw steering box that is an internal setup. to convert Your car to manual steering you have to have one of the rare 71-73 manual boxes to swap into your car.
if you want to convert to manual steering look for base model sixxers a lot of them had manual steering.
ive had 7 71-73 cars and only one has been M/S
i like it so much more.idk what the part number is for the box but you might be able to get one through flaming river etc
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BeatnikFink
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Oct 1, 2015 08:00 PM




