so as i had just changed my brake pads on my 68 coupe. i had a small leak problem with my power steering control valve. possibly one of the hoses. so i picked the spot where most of the dripping was coming from and tightened it. Well when i went around the block to test out the brakes my car started smoking. Looked under the hood. power steering fluid everywhere. looked like the thing had exploded. i found out that when i turn the wheel, this hose

http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang...E-200-250/4770

decided to tear at one of the metal hose parts (the unfixable kind) and started shooting power steering fluid up and all over everything in my engine bay. The part for the hose isnt expensive and im not worried about getting it. but im not gonna put it in until i figure out what caused the last one to burst because that was a new hose as well. Just didnt have that problem with the first one. and im hoping i dont need a new control valve because i dont want to deal with all that.




the part i tightened is circled in red, and the part where the hose that broke was connected to is in blue. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

convert to manual steering and you will never have a leak again, one of the first things i made sure to do when building my 65 up

 

but wont it feel like im trying to turn a brick.

 

my car is fairly easy to turn without it, can you handle turning the wheel with the car off? that what it will feel like trying to park etc driving down the road will be easy even without P/s

 

Most mustang parts places have a core exchange. A rebuilt pump is under 150 and new one is 300+. There is such thing as over tightening. Im thinking you over did it. Buy all new hoses and go from there. Im sure they are original and need replacing anyways.

Im a fan of p/s. I rebuilt mine with all new parts. Have not had any problems since! Its been almost 3 years now. Most people gripe about p/s because of the cost to fix the entire system. They usually end up piecing things back together and more parts brake.

If the hoses dont fix the leak, I would take the all or nothing approach

 

Also, did you top the fluid off by chance?

 

nope, didnt top off the fluid. this is my daily driver and i havent had much work in a while at my job. so until summer, im screwed.

 

Sorry Dan, but manual steering is not that bad, and it's a damn sight better than the lack of road feel that comes with the crappy overboosted power-assist steering system.

All of the GT m/s cars came with the same 16:1 box that the p/s cars got, and people drive those every day. I drive every day with the slower non-GT box and I actually want the quick ratio box to help cut down the wheel rowing I have to do to corner. No, a 100lb girl isn't going to be able to drive it, but if you've got arm muscles, you should be just fine.

 

*cough*mynameisTad*cough*
hehe

I just don't want to scare people away from m/s. It's really not that bad at all. I can even parallel park my car just fine. I look ridiculous spinning the wheel around 5 times, but I can do it. I imagine it'll be a little more difficult with a 16:1 box, but still doable.

 

What you have circled as being tightened, is the clamp that holds the ball stud sleeve in position on the end of the centerlink. There is a rollpin, but it is more to locate where the control valve sits in relation to the steering linkage than holding it in place. Just like the clamp on a tie rod end or adjuster, it is the clamp that does the holding.

However, if the rollpin has been sheared off, and the control valve is not in the right rotation on the centerlink, it will put extra stress on the hoses, and that can cause your problem.

The metal tube parts of the pressure hose and return hose are supposed to fit faily close up against the side of the ball stud sleeve. Just before the metal tube flares out to the fitting where the rubber hose is attached, the hoses are supposed to be held in place against the sleeve with a screw-type hose clamp, like a slightly larger version of a heater hose clamp. Without this clamp, the hoses will flex a lot and that will eventually cause the fittings to loosen or the metal tubing to fatigue and crack. That is what likely caused your problem.