My figure isn't going to be exactly the same as yours considering how much you pay for the trans and what clutch you go with. But;

Trans/Bellhousing - $300 (craigslist)
New 28oz 157 tooth flywheel - $100 (www.themustangdepot.com)
Mustang Steve cable linkage - $219 (Mustang Steve)
T5 Conversion Crossmember - $139 (Mustang Steve)
3 Quarts of Dextron III - $3.49 each
Clutch/Pressure plate - Free, came with trans (Expect to pay $200 to $400 for what you choose, King Cobra recommended)
Clutch Alignment tool - $2
T5 Shifter Handle - $109 (Reenmachine)
T5 Shifter **** - $34 (Reenmachine)

You don't have to get the ball bearing kit for your clutch pedal from Mustang Steve but I highly recommend it. It made a world of difference and I guarantee that your bushings need replacing at this point, mine did badly.

Depending on your set up you may need a new speedo cable and/or gear, transmission mount. I was able to reuse my parts from my 3 speed manual.

Yes, to put the quadrant on top of the clutch pedal.

 

Yes, the kit has a cable quadrant that must be welded to the top of the clutch pedal. You can DIY or you can send to Steve and he'll weld for an additional cost.

 

How hard is it to do what do i need to do i do i need a new clustch pedal i have a 3 speed any help would be great thanks how bout drivesaft i have a 66

 

hey remicks, i'm doing the T5 swap on my 67 289 right now. How did the T5 fit through the shifter hole? Did you have to modify the tunnel at all?

You said you didn't have to shorten your driveshaft, I think I might not have to either. I measured the free play on the yoke before starting and I had about 2 inches of free play. Is this normal? What I've read is there should be between .75 and 1.25 of free play ideally. This means that after I've finished the conversion I should be right around there and shouldn't need to modify the driveshaft. But should we have that much free play stock?

 

On the 65/66 version, Steve sells the clutch pedal or entire pedal set with the roller bearing already installed (my set up for my 66). Both versions come with the quadrant already welded to the clutch pedal. On 67/68 versions, you either weld it or send it to Steve and he will weld it.

I highly recommend you clearance the cowl, rather than grinding the quadrant. I'm not sure how you would reduce the quadrant anyway as the cable lays in the groove on top? It is easy to clearance the cowl and you can't see it, plus this is Steve's recommended approach.