Ignition Coil Hookup
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
It'll work if you run the Flamethrower I coil, but it may not if you're running a Flamethrower II or other aftermarket low-resistance coil. Jonward burned up a couple of them that way before he figured it out.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 678
From: San Francisco, CA
Oh man, you guys just opened a can of worms for me. So you are all saying that the Ignitor I should not be running off of a straight 12 volt flamethrower coil? Thats what I have. I just installed it and its running strong, but should I be waiting for it to crap out on me now? Its installed, Ignition to Flamethrower coil to Pertronix I. Whats the deal?
Sorry for Hi-jacking..
Sorry for Hi-jacking..
flamethrower 1 with ignitor 2 = good
flamethrower 2 with ignitor 1 = BAD
flamethrower 2 with ignitor 2 = good
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
oh crap, i think in this case i was me again to bypass ?! was it?
i just went on that info:
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
and their manual seems to allow both as well (see the diagrams on page 2 and FAQ) in that doc:
http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf
??
i just went on that info:
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
and their manual seems to allow both as well (see the diagrams on page 2 and FAQ) in that doc:
http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf
??
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,462
From: Texas
Thats alright. I don't mind the hi jack.
I think the Pertronix FlameThrower and Ignitor I should have the ballast resistor wire in place. The the II doens't need it. That is what I understand.
I think the Pertronix FlameThrower and Ignitor I should have the ballast resistor wire in place. The the II doens't need it. That is what I understand.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 232
From: Alberta,Canada
Ignitor™ COMMON QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Q. What is the first thing I should check if the engine would not start?
A. Make certain all wires are connected securely to the proper terminals.
Q. The engine will not start or runs rough. Are there any tests that I can do?
A. Yes, remove the red Ignitor™ wire from the coil positive terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery directly to the red Ignitor™ wire. If the engine starts and runs well, you may have a low voltage problem. Remember this is just a test and not intended for permanent installation. Read “ How to correct a low voltage poblem”
Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?
A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor™ wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor™ wire to.
Q. What type of coil can I use?
A. The Ignitor™ is compatible only with a "points style" coil.
Q. What happens if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not
running?
A. This can cause you coil to overheat, which may cause permanent damage to the coil and the Ignitor™.
Q. May I modify the length of the Ignitor™ wires?
A. Yes, you may cut the wires to any length your application may require. You may also add lengths of wire if needed (20 gauge wire). Please make sure all wire splice are clean and connections are secure.
Q. Will the shift interrupter on an OMC stern drive boat work with the Ignitor™?
A. The Ignitor is compatible with all OMC stern drive applications, when equipped with a "diode fix". If you purchased a kit that does not include the "diode fix" diagram, call our tech line.
Q. How can I get additional help?
A. Call our tech line (909 599 5955) for any further instructions or questions. You may also
logon to www.pertronix.com for the latest technical information.
Q. What is the first thing I should check if the engine would not start?
A. Make certain all wires are connected securely to the proper terminals.
Q. The engine will not start or runs rough. Are there any tests that I can do?
A. Yes, remove the red Ignitor™ wire from the coil positive terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery directly to the red Ignitor™ wire. If the engine starts and runs well, you may have a low voltage problem. Remember this is just a test and not intended for permanent installation. Read “ How to correct a low voltage poblem”
Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?
A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor™ wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor™ wire to.
Q. What type of coil can I use?
A. The Ignitor™ is compatible only with a "points style" coil.
Q. What happens if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not
running?
A. This can cause you coil to overheat, which may cause permanent damage to the coil and the Ignitor™.
Q. May I modify the length of the Ignitor™ wires?
A. Yes, you may cut the wires to any length your application may require. You may also add lengths of wire if needed (20 gauge wire). Please make sure all wire splice are clean and connections are secure.
Q. Will the shift interrupter on an OMC stern drive boat work with the Ignitor™?
A. The Ignitor is compatible with all OMC stern drive applications, when equipped with a "diode fix". If you purchased a kit that does not include the "diode fix" diagram, call our tech line.
Q. How can I get additional help?
A. Call our tech line (909 599 5955) for any further instructions or questions. You may also
logon to www.pertronix.com for the latest technical information.
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