What headers to buy?
I have been looking and looking for headers for my 68 Mustang. No one is able to tell me what kind I need to get. I have a 289, 4 speed Manual Transmission and Power Steering. Does anyone know what I need to get?
Thanks in Advance.
Thanks in Advance.
shorties are better for HP in upper rpm band, long tube are better for torque. i personally (my huimble opinion) would always go for the long tubes, but they are more of a PITA to fit (drives side clutch z-bar)!
then there's the price ranges: steel, chrome, ceramic coated.
The ceramic coated ones will look best after years to come as all others will rust. I kept it cheap and just painted mine with headere paint.
apart from that there's a lot of headers that might fit your application:
from 120$ to 1000$
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...view=sku#rstop
then there's the price ranges: steel, chrome, ceramic coated.
The ceramic coated ones will look best after years to come as all others will rust. I kept it cheap and just painted mine with headere paint.
apart from that there's a lot of headers that might fit your application:
from 120$ to 1000$
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...view=sku#rstop
With long tube headers, you'll also have clearance issues with your power steering. You'll have to buy an adapter bracket that lowers the mounting pount of your power steering ram. I had Patriot Tri-Y headers on my '67 coupe. My '67 convertible has Hooker headers. The Hooker headers seem to have better clearance with the power steering hoses. Both cars are automatics, so I have no experience with clutch clearance issues.
Last edited by nassaubayman; Apr 8, 2009 at 12:11 PM.
Highly suggest going with Ceramic coated headers. As kalli stated.. all others will rust. Also lets not forget the mid-length headers. Good power and torque, no ground clearance issues, easier to install over the long tubes.
As many people also have issues with their header bolts loosening rather quickly and are constantly tightening them the Stage 8 Locking Header Bolt kits are helpful. Not required but it helps resolve one issue. Stainless is the way to go however costs twice the price.
As many people also have issues with their header bolts loosening rather quickly and are constantly tightening them the Stage 8 Locking Header Bolt kits are helpful. Not required but it helps resolve one issue. Stainless is the way to go however costs twice the price.
So you're saying that shorties will have almost no hp or torque gain over the
stock cast iron manifolds???
I still have the stockers, and wondering if ceramic shortys and having a shop fit new exhaust is really worth the big expense.
Looks is not important (can't see the manifold with A/C anyway) and I can't believe the weight diff is more than 20lbs.
Long tubes are not an option with my clutch cable etc.
Here is also something to ponder: http://www.sandersonheaders.com/tech_get_technical.php
As far as I am concerned, on a typical street car you don't really need to be that concerned about long/short/mid-length unless you are the kind of person that races from every stop light to the next one. I'm past that stage myself. I personally would be more concerned about fit and ground clearance on my street car. Sure you will sacrifice a little power at some rpm band, but any header will be an improvement over stock manifolds. Even the hi-po cast manifolds will get you more power over stock. Now, if you go to the track and want the best times then a set of long tubes will be a better choice. All depends on what you intend to do.
I'm right now at the point where I need to think about headers for my 70 with 351W. I have a set of long tubes that came on the car and will clean up fine and look good with a little high temp paint or coating. I will probably see how well they fit and what the ground clearance looks like, but may end up going with shorties.
On the topic of ground clearance, keep in mind that if you do go with the long tubes, get a set that fits the short deck 289/302 engines only. Many manufacturers sell headers for mustangs where the same header supposedly fits 289/302 and 351W engines. They will fit, but if it fits the 351 then it will definitely hang lower on a 289 or 302. The deck height difference is about 1.25".
As for the power difference, the long tubes do give you more bottom end torque, but if that is what you are looking for the tri-y's may be a better choice.
Shorties WILL flow better than stock logs. No doubt about it. This has become a myth because the shorties for newer Mustangs don't flow that much better than stock, but the newer Mustangs came with tube manifolds from the factory, not cast logs like the classic mustangs. Below is a picture of a factory exhaust header off a 90's 5.0 Mustang. Aftermarket shorties for these cars don't flow much better than these. Below is also a picture of a stock cast log and a shorty header for a classic mustang. Just look at them.


