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Light battery + radiator?

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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Default Light battery + radiator?

Hi,

I would like to save a few lbs from the engine bay and was thinking about battery relocation. It can be dangerous, I would need a switch and it would add some overall weight hence I have decided not to go this route.

I plan on changing my radiator (stock) and my battery to some lighter components. Two questions:

1/ Is it worth it?
2/ How much will it cost me?

Thanks!
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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Changing any single component for weight isn't really worth it, but if you swap to aluminum intake/heads, aluminum radiator, and relocate the battery to the trunk, the combined weight savings on the front end will be significant. You likely won't notice it based on steering effort, gas mileage, or day to day driving, but it would help keep the front from plowing into corners and keep the car more balanced mid-turn.

You can get small Odyssey batteries that have insane cranking power for their weight, but IMO it's not worth it for the price unless you're racing and trying to cut down every pound.
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Starfury
Changing any single component for weight isn't really worth it, but if you swap to aluminum intake/heads, aluminum radiator, and relocate the battery to the trunk, the combined weight savings on the front end will be significant. You likely won't notice it based on steering effort, gas mileage, or day to day driving, but it would help keep the front from plowing into corners and keep the car more balanced mid-turn.

You can get small Odyssey batteries that have insane cranking power for their weight, but IMO it's not worth it for the price unless you're racing and trying to cut down every pound.
Thanks, I already have aluminium heads/intake. To me it is all about price/weight ratio basically.

If I can save 15 pounds on a light battery and 5 pounds on a light radiator for less than $500, it is good to me
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 11:57 PM
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Well, I think those Odyssey batteries are like $200+, and an aluminum radiator could run you $200-500, depending on the quality and fit.

I'm building my 67 into a trackable street car and I'll probably end up going with an aluminum radiator and a battery relocation. I don't see the micro-sized batteries as cost effective. I'd rather spend the money elsewhere.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 12:50 AM
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What about something like this?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Braille+Auto/147/B14115/10002/-1
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 01:56 AM
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I wouldn't trust 360CCA to start my motor.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 02:23 AM
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Relocating the battery to the trunk is not a bad idea. Not sure why you feel it is dangerous or why you feel like you need a switch on it. The switch is only required if you are drag racing and only on some tracks. It will sure improve your weight ratio.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 07:38 AM
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that alum heads made a massive difference already in my car, so I guess the same with yours.
do you have export brace and monte carlo bar installed? if not then this is the way to go instead of shifting measly 3 pounds
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Order the Optima battery. Its rated at 800CCA but is closer to 950 as they are under rated. Since they are sealed batteries there is no need for venting. Just buy or make a battery holder and mount it in your trunk either centered under the package tray or on the passengers side. After this route a set of relocation wires for power.

I agree with Starfury in that moving the battery by itself is useless really however since you've already moved to aluminum heads/intake this and the aluminum rad would be the next steps.

Have fun!



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