remicks

I'm putting together a suspension for my car, as much as I would love to convert to coil over, I just don't want to afford that right now. I was looking to make my suspension sportier and stiffened up but not rock hard, something that is still fun to drive. The kits I was looking at were the Grap a Trak kit at Mustangplus and the Street Bandit kit at NPD, I was going to assemble mine with parts from those kits because I already have KYB Gas-A-Just up front and they can't break up the kits. I don't feel like paying for expensive pieces I already have.

But here is what I was looking at right now, buying the parts from NPD more than likely.

KYB Gas-A-Just front and rear
NPD Front Sway Bar kit, 1" (comes with poly bushings)
NPD Rear Sway Bar kit, 3/4" (comes with poly bushings)

I have questions about these parts because I know how new leafs and coil springs and change the ride height. If you have experience or a part to sugguest please do.

NPD Contour Coil Spring, 550lbs rate 1 inch lowering. P/N 5310-2B

And I don't know what rear leaf to go with, I believe mine are still original. If it is being lowered in the front an inch by the coils I guess keeping it stock or 1 inch lower in the rear would keep the ride height the same. I wary about new leafs because I have heard some stories about some dramatically affecting the ride and height.

Thanks in advance guys.

Starfury

I'd recommend basically what I'm running:
540lb 1" drop coils (I got mine for cheap from OpenTracker, but they're made by M+)
Roller spring perches from Day @ Dazecars
Shelby/Arning UCA drop
4.5 leaf mid-eye springs in the back, w/new hardware kit (got mine from M+)
15/16" front sway bar
Export Brace
Monte Carlo bar

My car rides pretty level with that setup (compared to low in the rear before the coils), but noticably lower than stock all the way around. I may cut 1/4 coil or so off the front to drop it a bit more, but I'll wait until I get 16" wheels/tires on it first. The mid-eye leafs will probably put your *** end about where it is now, assuming you have original springs.

The suspension will be a little stiff with the Gas-A-Justs on the crappy roads around here (I have Edelbrocks, which ride smoother but handle better), but I think you'll like it. I drive the **** out of my car when I can (back roads in north county, Turri Rd, etc), and the only complaint I have is with a bit of excessive body roll in the rear. I'll probably add a rear sway bar and upgrade the front to 1-1/8" or so, but I don't know if you want to go that route. Rear sway bars tend to make these cars a little tail-happy, which makes for interesting driving on the street.

I'd recommend against a full kit. I don't like the Grab-a-Trak kits because they mostly use poly bushings, which tend to squeak and give a harsh ride. You can usually piece together parts for about the same price, especially if you don't need to replace every last component of your front end.

If you want to take a look at my car and go for a ride next time you're down here, let me know.

remicks

I forgot all about the parts from Daze, I haven't been on in it seems forever.
I only saw the 560lb on Opentracker. I am fairly confident that the leafs are original. It seems nothing else was replaced or rebuilt on this car were the shifter and engine/trans.

I am working on being able to drive the **** out of this car, and thank god these rough roads out here are nicer than the nice roads out in Detroit. Anybody from that area can attest to that, the road changed when you crossed the Ohio border. But I know what you are saying about the car getting tail happy with the rear sway bar but also that it helps to stiffen it up alot too, I guess its a trade off. Maybe getting softer than the Gas-A-Justs in the rear might help but up front they aren't that bad, a world of difference over the originals that were still up front.

I was leary about the poly bushings too. I do not want that squeaking. What did you use for your bushings, heard anything about the Prothane Urethane bushings?

That would be cool to see your car, I might have some time this week but I am moving out my house this weekend too. I sadly wouldn't be able to drive my car to slo, I would have to drive my truck. I have to find a better way to brace my cable clutch and stop the quadrant from rubbing against the underside of the cowl. Then weld up the nice hole left by the PO and the really "cool" aftermarket shifter he had installed a long time ago, that still makes me angry looking at that hole. But I will get with you and see what we can arrange because I would really like to see what the ride difference is.

remicks

Plus I do need a replacement monte carlo bar. Had my friend cut that off with a plasma cutter. It got bent somehow and I don't remember crashing my car into something and it doesn't appear to of crashed either. I believe that may of left a noticable dent.

Starfury

Prothane is simply a manufacturer. Apparently they groove their bushings for better grease retention, but I imagine they would still be more prone to squeaks. Polygraphite has graphite imbedded in the polyurethane, making for a squeak-free ride. Midolyne is a similar self-lubing material that isn't quite as stiff as poly.

All of my bushings, save the sway bar, are rubber. Upper coil spring insulators and UCA bushings are particularly prone to squeaking if you use polyurethane. If you're building a track car, you need urethane or even bronze bushings to prevent deflection. But on a street car, rubber should work just fine. Poly is ok on the sway bars because they don't generally squeak much.

Absolutely do NOT use poly on the strut rods. Poly doesn't have enough deflection there and can snap strut rods, especially if they're original.

My car isn't much to look at, but it's a lot more fun to drive after new springs and the shelby drop. It rides fairly harsh for a street car, but it's not unbearable. Potholes are pretty jarring, though, and taking a poorly-paved corner requires a light right foot.

I actually work weekends right now, so unless you swing down after 5, that wouldn't work anyway. We'll figure something out, though. I finish up class in a couple weeks, so I'll have more free time after that. The SLO Car Club may start having more cruises as well, and you'd be welcome to sit shotgun if I can find time to go on one. Those guys know all the back roads in north county. Seeing as their cars all handle and stop better than mine, I have to push my car hard to try to keep up.

97Snake1668

Contact John and Shari at Opentracker. Just let them know what you are planning to do and they will get you set up. I am stuck over here in the desert and I was able to get all my suspension setup and shipped to my house. They really are all about customer service and they will take care of you. Good luck.

Semper Fi,
Kris

Starfury

I'm very happy with their service and products as well. I bought a roller idler and my front coils from them, and I want some of their boxed and rollerized UCA's. I've heard they're not taking orders atm though.

JamesW

I'm running a very similar front to Tads.
620 coils
Shelby drop
ROller Idler arm
Roller spring perches
GR2 Shocks
(I had a 1" sway bar from M+ but it didn't fit and hit the strut rods)

remicks

Well I disappeared from the face of the forum for a little while, moving will do that to you.

That sounds like a good idea, especially considering they are only about 2 hours away, see what they can do for me for around $500. But have fun in the desert, stay safe, I don't exactly miss it over there but I do miss saving all that money and BAH. Don't spend it all in one place when you get back.

Thanks for the tips, hopefully I should be having some free time after this huge overtime week to see your car Tad, if you have any info on that 4100 let me know.

Did you guys go with a softer shock in the rear to avoid too rough of a ride and/or to avoid it getting tall happy? I'm happy with my Gas-A-Just's up front but I would think they would be a little stiff in the back.

James is that picture on your website current with the ride height of your car, are you leafs different than stock?

I guess I forgot to mention I am trying to keep the budget under or around $500.

JamesW

That is the current ride height.... fronts have not been cut. but, they've been in place for about 5 years so the've settled a little.