thinking about wideband O2
#1
thinking about wideband O2
Hi all,
thinkering with a carb might be great fun, but I'm kinda sick of trying. I have two options:
I get a spark plug checker for 50 quid and learn or
get a wideband meter.
Supposedly the innovate LM-2 is the fastest and most accurate. I love the fact that you can hook rpm very easy (supposedly I can just hook it to minus terminal of coil with my pertronix) as I don't have a tach output.
Data can be uploaded to computer (laptop) via USB. I was thinking about the single model (not dual bung) and just hook that into the driver side collector.
Then I was thinking the LM-1 would do as well. No USB, but serial connection. There's a fella in the states who'd ship it to me (Europe) for free at 300$
what you lads think. that worth it? any experience with that?
Kalli
thinkering with a carb might be great fun, but I'm kinda sick of trying. I have two options:
I get a spark plug checker for 50 quid and learn or
get a wideband meter.
Supposedly the innovate LM-2 is the fastest and most accurate. I love the fact that you can hook rpm very easy (supposedly I can just hook it to minus terminal of coil with my pertronix) as I don't have a tach output.
Data can be uploaded to computer (laptop) via USB. I was thinking about the single model (not dual bung) and just hook that into the driver side collector.
Then I was thinking the LM-1 would do as well. No USB, but serial connection. There's a fella in the states who'd ship it to me (Europe) for free at 300$
what you lads think. that worth it? any experience with that?
Kalli
#2
I have the Innovate LM-1. I used it with my stack fuel injection to tune it properly. I would remove the narrow band O2 sensor that was part of the EFI set-up, run in open loop, and tune the injection. It worked really well. I then picked up the tail pipe clamp to try it on a carbed engine. It wasn't quite as responsive, but was still accurate. I tested both on my EFI engine and they were the same, but it also had side pipes and being more of a direct shop and closer to the engine may have made a difference. The nice thing about it is the wide band sensor is self heated (plugs into the lighter). The reason I am pointing this out is you may want to consider the clamp v. drilling and welding in a bung.
One more point, if you are having trouble tuning with a vacuum gauge and checking plugs, the LM-1 won't really make it that much easier, just quicker. You will get readings quickly and be able to respond faster, but tuning will still be a challenge!
One more point, if you are having trouble tuning with a vacuum gauge and checking plugs, the LM-1 won't really make it that much easier, just quicker. You will get readings quickly and be able to respond faster, but tuning will still be a challenge!
#3
Thanks Mark,
we always used the clamped versions in a garage 15 years back. just for idle. I'd love one of those as this way we can go easy from one car to another with that thing. Need to check on the clamped version. i don't mind tunign to be a challenge. I like that part. what I don't like is guessing
we always used the clamped versions in a garage 15 years back. just for idle. I'd love one of those as this way we can go easy from one car to another with that thing. Need to check on the clamped version. i don't mind tunign to be a challenge. I like that part. what I don't like is guessing
#4
FAST makes a really slick dual wideband setup that shows real time AFR and data logs at the same time, and with an RPM module can also map rpm vs AFR. It's freaking expensive though. No computer needed to download to, it's an on-dash stand alone module.
I prefer plug reading and mph, but wouldn't mind a wideband logger as well.
I'd still recommend that even if you go with a wideband setup, regardless of which one it is, learn to read plugs anyway(Pro Systems has a nice kit with a learning DVD). Wideband only tells you O2 content in the exhaust(which is still a valuable tuning tool), but plugs tell you what's actually happening inside the chamber. Plugs can not only tell you AFR, but will also let you know if your heat range and ignition timing is correct as well.
I prefer plug reading and mph, but wouldn't mind a wideband logger as well.
I'd still recommend that even if you go with a wideband setup, regardless of which one it is, learn to read plugs anyway(Pro Systems has a nice kit with a learning DVD). Wideband only tells you O2 content in the exhaust(which is still a valuable tuning tool), but plugs tell you what's actually happening inside the chamber. Plugs can not only tell you AFR, but will also let you know if your heat range and ignition timing is correct as well.
#6
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...AIRFUEL_METERS
Their RPM module is another $190 on top of that. And that's not even their most expensive unit.
Their RPM module is another $190 on top of that. And that's not even their most expensive unit.
#7
Kalli
Im fixing to pick up a wide band o2 sensor as well. The guys who helped me with the vibration issue by allowing me time on their dyno have an on board dedicated o2 sensor system that I plan to get in the near future...
It has a box that monitors the A/F ratio that reads out a digital number The box can be stored in say the glove box and it has the ability to wireless transmit the signal to a smaller gauge that can be placed more easily.
I could probably get you one for 250 + shipping...these units normally sell for 500
I can get you more info on Monday if you are at all interested.
-Gun
Im fixing to pick up a wide band o2 sensor as well. The guys who helped me with the vibration issue by allowing me time on their dyno have an on board dedicated o2 sensor system that I plan to get in the near future...
It has a box that monitors the A/F ratio that reads out a digital number The box can be stored in say the glove box and it has the ability to wireless transmit the signal to a smaller gauge that can be placed more easily.
I could probably get you one for 250 + shipping...these units normally sell for 500
I can get you more info on Monday if you are at all interested.
-Gun
#8
Iskwezm: quid is bob, poka, money, dosh ... sorry for dialect
67mustang302: i've read the article on FordMuscle. They use an older version, which probably will do me fine.
I really only need lambda and rpm with upload capability to computer. We have about 30+ classics in the club and we can use it on all of them without having to weld every single car.
I'll def go for plug reader, but the one you posted is out of my league. Probably goig for
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=CCA-5326 or
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=WSN-546100
but I'll get their DVD
I thought a lot of people would upgrade their LM-1 to LM-2 or similar. Wondering why it is so hard to find them second hand on ebay.
Gun: any part numbers or similar? so I can check what it actually is?
Kalli
67mustang302: i've read the article on FordMuscle. They use an older version, which probably will do me fine.
I really only need lambda and rpm with upload capability to computer. We have about 30+ classics in the club and we can use it on all of them without having to weld every single car.
I'll def go for plug reader, but the one you posted is out of my league. Probably goig for
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=CCA-5326 or
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=WSN-546100
but I'll get their DVD
I thought a lot of people would upgrade their LM-1 to LM-2 or similar. Wondering why it is so hard to find them second hand on ebay.
Gun: any part numbers or similar? so I can check what it actually is?
Kalli
Last edited by kalli; 05-10-2009 at 07:05 AM.
#9
I think that once people buy one, they don't want to get rid of it (why they are not on ebay). Kind of like a timing light, even when I bought a better one the old one stayed in the drawer. Mine is in the drawer with all my other diagnostic and tuning tools. When I removed the EFI from my coupe, I thought I wouldn't need the LM-1 any more, but have used it many times since. I have to say that it is quite handy and does make tuning faster. The other advantage of the tail pipe clamp is you can test both sides. Even with my H-pipe, there are slight differences.