I have been fighting getting a door panel lined up for the last 4 hours

The panel appears to fit fine except for the area on the sail window frame. I have almost a quarter inch of gap and I have no idea how to get the panel closer.

We have tried to install the door skin with and without the sail window frame installed and it doesn't make a difference.

I am getting super frustrated.


Anyone had this issue?

What can I do to fix it?

 

pictures are attached

 

Is there tab that needs to be spot welded to pull it in? On ours there was a tab that I put a couple of screws into instead of spot welding them back. I can not remember if it was in the front or in the back...
Here are pics that may help from when we did ours...
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id19.html
Good Luck
Ron

 

There is a tab, but even pulled in I could not get the gap as tight as the factory.

I got it as tight as I could but it is twice that of the stock driver's side.

I guess the panels just aren't up to factory spec...


Shoudl I fill the gap in with everything. I concerend with water entering the door, but I guess the origninal gap could be why by door panels were rotted out to begin with...

 

If you start at the top and work down, do you have the same problem at the bottom of the door? How do the body lines line up on the front fender and rear quarter panel? Did you do the other door and have the same problem?

 

I tried starting from every corner.

The bottom of the door fit fine.

I'm about to go out and attach the hinges to see how it lines up.

I'll need a skim coat of filler on the edges where the hammer and dolly were used to smooth it out, but overall i think it will look great.

The other side will be much easier.

 

Ron,

I appreciated the tip on screwing the tabs together.

I can't reach a welder in that space and had put the sail window without secruing the tabs. I took the sail window out and screwed it together and it might have even helped the gap ever so slightly...

 

Good to hear!
I had to use body filler also along the bottom, especially on the back corner. They make special pair of pliers that are 6 inches wide that bends the edge over. I could not justify a 120 dollar tool I would use 1 time though.
For what its worth or to others thinking of doing it:

You do not have to remove the window and mechanism
Grease all the gears and replace anything that is worn out before you install the skin.
Put the new felt on the skin before you mount it to the frame
Pay a little extra for a higher quality skin.

 

I went ahead and replaced the window regulators and greased all the rollers. I don't have the new felts yet so my windows are currently feltless...

Do you think I should use some filler on the gap?

 

My door skin was perfectly straight on the top and the gap was even all the way across. I started on the top when I put it on and adjusted the tab for an even gap.
Was the window lip straight to begin with? I know my door skin had some minor shipping damage and I was thinking maybe yours has a bow in it.
I would be careful in trying to use a body filler to span a 1/4 in gap between the lip and vent window. There would be nothing to support the bottom edge of the filler and the door will be slammed and probably break the filler off.
Sounds like you might be fighting a couple of panel alignment issues though
Is the new skin in place?
Bent over and spot welded?
Is the panel flat if you use a straight edge on it?
If it is flat and lined up everywhere else, I would be tempted to cut part of the old door skin lip off the original and use it as patch to get the gap between the skin and vent closed and a few tack welds to hold the patch in place. I would not just use filler.
I looks like the new skin was not straight and gapped evenly on the top to me though. It should be the same distance all along the window.
Good luck