Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Random Thoughts on Restoration

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 3, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #11  
Silverblade's Avatar
Silverblade
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 262
From: British Columbia
Default

I just pick up a photo album to track all my receipts. I thought there would be about 25, there was over 50 (2 months). I havent added them up yet thankfully.
Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #12  
ThanksDad's Avatar
ThanksDad
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 585
From: Baltimore MD
Default

I used to save ALL my receipts. Then I added them up one day. I threw them away that day. Now I save the really important ones and I will never add them up again.
Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:57 PM
  #13  
HGC's Avatar
HGC
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,751
From: Central Illinois
Default

If you are drilling...wear eye protection. If you are treating rust...wear eye protection. If you are doing just about any damn thing...wear eye protection. A Mustang looks a lot better when seen through two eyes.
If you are grinding...wear eye protection and a respirator.
Old Jun 3, 2009 | 09:55 PM
  #14  
90RunnerRed's Avatar
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 224
From: CO
Default

Excellent writeup.


One of the biggest things I've learned is that constant pressure is never a good way to break a bolt loose, an impact wrench or a hammer on the end of a wrench is always a better way.

I like the comment about not adding up receipts though, I really do not want to know.
Old Jun 4, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #15  
groho's Avatar
groho
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,195
Default

Your project car should not be your daily driver (work car)

Don't overlook your daily driver (work car)

Measure twice, three times, four if necessary, cuz once it's cut, bent, or welded, there's no turning back.

I truly wish restoration parts and upgrades were of better quality. example, sheet metal. So, make sure you know what you're buying.

Patience.

If you can't figure out the problem, go back to basics. 99% of the time it's something simple that's causing the problem.
Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #16  
LynnBob Mustang's Avatar
LynnBob Mustang
5th Gear Member
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,243
From: PA
Default

Originally Posted by jcoby
A 110v MIG 140A welder will do 95% of the welding you could ever want to do on a classic Mustang. Gasless is almost worthless.
What is the 5% it isn't good for?
I'm looking into a '65 with some minor floor pan fixing, a rocker panel, cowl. I'll leave the 1/4 panels to the body shop.
Is that style welder good for I mentioned?
I have got guys at work that said they will teach me how to weld and come over if I need to have anything done, I just want to get a welder that won't break the wallet.

Lynn

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; Jun 11, 2009 at 08:07 PM.
Old Jun 11, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #17  
jcoby's Avatar
jcoby
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 307
From: NC
Default

Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang
What is the 5% it isn't good for?
I'm looking into a '65 with some minor floor pan fixing, a rocker panel, cowl. I'll leave the 1/4 panels to the body shop.
Is that style welder good for I mentioned?
I have got guys at work that said they will teach me how to weld and come over if I need to have anything done, I just want to get a welder that won't break the wallet.

Lynn
yep. the 110v welders don't do very well on heavier metal without preheating. 140A is good to about 1/16" to 3/32" single pass. they'll do 1/8" if you bevel the edges and do a little heating and a couple of passes. they're actually better (IMO) for sheet metal because they generally have finer controls than the 220V welders. they're also more portable and lighter.

the main rule for welding is that cleanliness is king. if it's not shiny, it won't well very well. rust especially will really screw with the weld.
Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:52 AM
  #18  
LynnBob Mustang's Avatar
LynnBob Mustang
5th Gear Member
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,243
From: PA
Default

How is this brand and style of welder?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Millermatic-140-...3%3A1|294%3A50
Will it get the job done?

Lynn
Old Jun 12, 2009 | 08:27 AM
  #19  
THUMPIN455's Avatar
THUMPIN455
5th Gear Member
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
Default

Originally Posted by 90RunnerRed
Excellent writeup.


One of the biggest things I've learned is that constant pressure is never a good way to break a bolt loose, an impact wrench or a hammer on the end of a wrench is always a better way.
protip:

Sometimes if the bolt wont break lose try tightening it slightly, often it will move the threads and rusted head enough that it will then come out much easier. If it has threads sticking out the other side of the fastener that are rusty, loosen, then tighten, then loosen, then tighten slowly working the bolt out without breaking it. The bottom bolts on the fenders are the worst, valence panels are next, and rear leaf spring bolts require some sort of cutting device. I prefer a sawzall.

PB blaster is the best penetrating oil I have found in 30+ years of working on junk.

Use the right tool. Vise grips are intended to be welding clamps, not a 9/16 wrench that adjusts to 7/8.

A quality tool will keep your knuckles from looking like mine, imagine shoving your hand through a meat tenderizer. Sure it might hav a lifetime warranty against breakage, but chances are it doesnt have a warranty against slipping off the bolt head.

Get a good jack, if its under $200 it isnt a good jack. If its shiny and made from aluminum and is no more than 6" wide, its a POS. One piece handles are vastly superior to two piece handles, and also a sign of a quality jack.

If it comes off a truck it will be a stellar tool, it will also have a stellar price tag. Often less expensive tools will work well, but still you get what you pay for. Buy dirt cheap and some mid range tools and you will find the cheap ones getting bent or cut in half to fit in tight spaces in a pinch, and not much else. I have bought one jack, and one 1/2" impact and both have been abused for 20 years. (They did come off a truck and are painted bright red.) Some of my favorite wrenches came from CarQuest and NAPA and are the store brand, the ones I am completely **** about came from a truck.

You will always find more rust. Its a Mustang if you are here, and they rusted quite efficiently. If you feel bad about your choice of vehicle and the amount of rust it has, click the link in the sig. You will feel better.
Old Jun 12, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #20  
THUMPIN455's Avatar
THUMPIN455
5th Gear Member
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
Default

One last thing.

Never confuse simple to do with easy to do.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:34 PM.