Greetings, I just replaced the calipers on the front, along with new pads and bearings. The car was pulling left when I pushed the brakes, it did this before I did the work and still is doing the same. I mean it down right yanks to the left and is scary. Could it be the brake booster, master cylinder pressure diffential valve, Ball joints. Any help would be appreciated

 

jack it up and grab the wheels and look for play in the suspension and ball joints

it might be the caliper on the left side or possibly the right not working at all, just because they are new doesnt necessarily mean they are good fwiw

 

There is no play on either side, I have tested each side. If I coast down the road, the car drifts to the right slightly. As soon as I apply the brakes, it pulls the the left. The car has manual steering also.

 

How are your strut rod bushings? Bad strut rod bushings could cause this problem.

If suspension isn't the cause, something's wrong with your r/f brakes. It's possible your r/f brake line is restricted. Could also be that the calipers are installed on the wrong sides, although that would result in a mushy pedal.

 

Check your left rear brake - make sure it isnt grabbing before the others.

 

It is late here in florida, I will check the strut rod bushings tomorrow and also the rear brake. Thanks very much.

 

take it around the block and apply the brakes a few times to get everything warm. check your right front brake. if it's colder than the front left, it's probably got a swollen or clogged hose. you might be able to tell from the outside but there is usually very little external indication of a problem. hoses are usually about $15 from any parts house.

a rear brake won't cause an extremely aggressive brake steer like a non-functional front brake.

 

Would I get restriction from a hose if I just bleed the system and had no problems.

 

possibly. the problem is that the right caliper has a restriction which actuates the left caliper faster, which gives you uneven braking. it never equalizes since fluid only moves when the pedal moves. it's the same principal that the disc/drum proportioning valves work on.

the amount of fluid moving when bleeding is low and slow enough that you probably wouldn't notice it unless it was (nearly) totally blocked.

i had the exact same problem with a kit car. when you touched the brakes, it would yank the wheel violently to the left and nearly lock up the front left brake. I'm pretty sure we tried bleeding the system. replacing the hoses fixed everything.

the car's 39 years old, it won't hurt anything to replace those lines. they're probably a little dry rotted by now anyways. if you do the temperature test you'll know for sure.

 

+1 /\/\


It could also be what he suspected to begin with the differential valve is clogged/needs replacing. Could have loosened some old dirt in working on the brakes

Stupid question to the OP but did you do a complete Bleed on your system after working on it? Best to do it with 2 people so one person can watch the fluid come out. If it dribbles out on the opposite (right side/passenger side) then you have your answer.

It's not the Booster because you would not have an issue on one side only. If the suspension is solid, start looking at the brake fluid path.