Help with stroker questions.
It all really depends on your wants and needs. For one, I would never go with a 331 over a 347. We won't even offer a 331 shortblock, even though we would make a larger profit margin if we did. All of the negative hype on rod ratio and cylinder wear, not to mention oil burning on a 347 vs. a 331, is just that.
Hype.
However, to give you some ideas for pricing...
If you were to buy a kit, have the machine work done, and assemble the shortblock yourself, you'd be looking in the range of $1100 +/- (shipped) for a QUALITY Scat based cast crank kit (with good forged Probe pistons...as well as rings and bearings). Machine work often comes in around $800 or so for quality work (including balancing), and a good balancer/flexplate-flywheel would end up in the $200 range or so shipped. This totals about $2200.
Conversely, you can pick up a prebuilt, balanced shortblock from a reputable shop online (I'm biased here =D), for around $2100 plus shipping. Add a balancer and flexplate/flywheel and you're at $2250 plus shipping. Yes, you're paying a bit more, but your motor is being built for you, and you also have the security of knowing that your motor was assembled by professionals that are familiar with the quirks of the engines they're putting together.
So, which one is better for you? I couldn't say. Building it yourself gives a great sense of satisfaction when done successfully, and a really crappy sense of disappointment if done unsuccessfully. Something you have to weigh out yourself I'd think!
Good luck, and let me know if I can help you out in any way.
Cris
Boss block
4.125 bore
3.40 stroke
AFR 185 c&c'd heads
jay allen cam
all this equals one bad a$$ 363ci stroker motor you can drive every day. At 10.5 to 1 compression I would guess 435 whp all day long on pump gas.
4.125 bore
3.40 stroke
AFR 185 c&c'd heads
jay allen cam
all this equals one bad a$$ 363ci stroker motor you can drive every day. At 10.5 to 1 compression I would guess 435 whp all day long on pump gas.
Now, switch that Boss block for a Dart or World block...and you're in the money =D.
Besides, with a goal of 435rwhp, you wouldn't even need a 363!! A well designed 347 is more than capable at that point!
Cris
A few mustangs around my area our eating bigblocks and the chevy crowds with 347 over and over again.
Ive never had a engine with the raw power a 347 makes for power per cubic inch.
To answer the question about the post do your research. The oil burning short lived 347 is a thing of earlier development or bad engine builder. You will not find cheap bargains and reliability to often. They are several builders with crate engines ready to run with warranties.
I'm 99.999% sure that Jay would refuse the honor of doing a cam for a Boss block based 3.4" stroke motor of any displacement. I know we would never even bother to send him a build sheet for one. The skirts are too short to comfortably house any more than a 3.25" stroke.
Now, switch that Boss block for a Dart or World block...and you're in the money =D.
Besides, with a goal of 435rwhp, you wouldn't even need a 363!! A well designed 347 is more than capable at that point!
Cris
Now, switch that Boss block for a Dart or World block...and you're in the money =D.
Besides, with a goal of 435rwhp, you wouldn't even need a 363!! A well designed 347 is more than capable at that point!
Cris
It all really depends on your wants and needs. For one, I would never go with a 331 over a 347. We won't even offer a 331 shortblock, even though we would make a larger profit margin if we did. All of the negative hype on rod ratio and cylinder wear, not to mention oil burning on a 347 vs. a 331, is just that.
Hype.
However, to give you some ideas for pricing...
If you were to buy a kit, have the machine work done, and assemble the shortblock yourself, you'd be looking in the range of $1100 +/- (shipped) for a QUALITY Scat based cast crank kit (with good forged Probe pistons...as well as rings and bearings). Machine work often comes in around $800 or so for quality work (including balancing), and a good balancer/flexplate-flywheel would end up in the $200 range or so shipped. This totals about $2200.
Conversely, you can pick up a prebuilt, balanced shortblock from a reputable shop online (I'm biased here =D), for around $2100 plus shipping. Add a balancer and flexplate/flywheel and you're at $2250 plus shipping. Yes, you're paying a bit more, but your motor is being built for you, and you also have the security of knowing that your motor was assembled by professionals that are familiar with the quirks of the engines they're putting together.
So, which one is better for you? I couldn't say. Building it yourself gives a great sense of satisfaction when done successfully, and a really crappy sense of disappointment if done unsuccessfully. Something you have to weigh out yourself I'd think!
Good luck, and let me know if I can help you out in any way.
Cris
Hype.
However, to give you some ideas for pricing...
If you were to buy a kit, have the machine work done, and assemble the shortblock yourself, you'd be looking in the range of $1100 +/- (shipped) for a QUALITY Scat based cast crank kit (with good forged Probe pistons...as well as rings and bearings). Machine work often comes in around $800 or so for quality work (including balancing), and a good balancer/flexplate-flywheel would end up in the $200 range or so shipped. This totals about $2200.
Conversely, you can pick up a prebuilt, balanced shortblock from a reputable shop online (I'm biased here =D), for around $2100 plus shipping. Add a balancer and flexplate/flywheel and you're at $2250 plus shipping. Yes, you're paying a bit more, but your motor is being built for you, and you also have the security of knowing that your motor was assembled by professionals that are familiar with the quirks of the engines they're putting together.
So, which one is better for you? I couldn't say. Building it yourself gives a great sense of satisfaction when done successfully, and a really crappy sense of disappointment if done unsuccessfully. Something you have to weigh out yourself I'd think!
Good luck, and let me know if I can help you out in any way.
Cris
Good post.Put that theory to the test at your local drag strip let us know how it turns out.
A few mustangs around my area our eating bigblocks and the chevy crowds with 347 over and over again.
Ive never had a engine with the raw power a 347 makes for power per cubic inch.
To answer the question about the post do your research. The oil burning short lived 347 is a thing of earlier development or bad engine builder. You will not find cheap bargains and reliability to often. They are several builders with crate engines ready to run with warranties.
A few mustangs around my area our eating bigblocks and the chevy crowds with 347 over and over again.
Ive never had a engine with the raw power a 347 makes for power per cubic inch.
To answer the question about the post do your research. The oil burning short lived 347 is a thing of earlier development or bad engine builder. You will not find cheap bargains and reliability to often. They are several builders with crate engines ready to run with warranties.
As far as cost it all depends on options. You can get a internally balanced kit for reduced stress, pre balanced and ready to drop in a prepped block for a good bit under $2k last I checked from Eagle. You add a zero balance flywheel/flexplate and dampner and your good to go.
Last edited by EagleStroker; Jun 14, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
Isn't integrity a bitch? =D
Also, as far as the specific issues with the Boss blocks too short bore skirts and a 3.4" stroke crank...there are ways around it. You can order a custom piston with a higher break point and ring package, or possibly (I've heard) a Mahle shelf piston that goes a small way towards keeping the piston from doing the Macarena at BDC. Stuff like that is bad for the ring seal and piston skirts you know!! And before you say anything, I don't care that Ford sells them with a 3.4" stroke and a million mile warranty (canned response by supporters of the Boss block). What works, works, and what doesn't...doesn't. Anyway, the point of this is that by the time you buy custom or Mahle pistons, you're over the price difference between the Boss block and the all around BETTER Dart SHP, and damn close to the price difference between the Boss and the Sportsman. So what was the point in buying the inferior block to begin with?? There's been a longtime, and completely invalid myth that the few 289's with the .00625" shorter bore skirt wouldn't work with a 3.4" stroke. I find it hilarious that many of the same guys that perpetuate that myth, try to SELL the freaking Boss block with it's .300" shorter bore skirt! Comes back to that integrity thing I think.
Anyhow badloser, in closing...I'm here to help people...and I'd like to apologize if I somehow offended you with my efforts at educating you as to the shortcomings of the Boss block in a 3.4" stroke application. If you don't appreciate or agree with my advice, that's fine. Just move along and we're all good. I do hope however that me voicing that advice will help out someone with a bit more open outlook on things than yourself.
Anyway, in the future, rather than becoming defensive at something someone says...and recommending a cam grinder that is simply more ready to take your money than another...maybe you should think about why the person said what they said. Chances are they weren't simply trying to insult you.
Good luck!
Cris
Back on the idea guys thinking stroker motors a quick comparison I had a few years back.
I had the fun of driving a 460 powered Maverick a couple of passes down the 1/4.
It was even more fun on the street saturday night.
It has beaten chevells mustangs Camaros novas and all except a viper with NOS at the strip that day in its class. That had to be about the fastest street car I had ever been in.
Next time I saw it @ the track it had a 347 and the big block was gone he was in the next class and running a 1.5 sec faster times.
Now thats what gave me my want to build my 347 and hang a paxton on it. Hope I get to see him at the track and see how my mustang does against it when I take mine if they will let me run in that class not sure which it is but quite a few things on tech you have to have.
BTW that Maverick was a 4 door.
I had the fun of driving a 460 powered Maverick a couple of passes down the 1/4.
It was even more fun on the street saturday night.
It has beaten chevells mustangs Camaros novas and all except a viper with NOS at the strip that day in its class. That had to be about the fastest street car I had ever been in.
Next time I saw it @ the track it had a 347 and the big block was gone he was in the next class and running a 1.5 sec faster times.
Now thats what gave me my want to build my 347 and hang a paxton on it. Hope I get to see him at the track and see how my mustang does against it when I take mine if they will let me run in that class not sure which it is but quite a few things on tech you have to have.
BTW that Maverick was a 4 door.


