Here are the specifications of the 289 Windsor I plan on building. Please provide suggestions.

Regards,

Matthew

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VEHICLE INFORMATION
Make: Ford Model: Fairlane (Australian) Year: 1967

Vehicle Weight: 3150 Axle Ratio: 2.92
Transmission Type: automatic Tire Height: 25"
Torque Converter Stall Speed: 1700-1900rpm
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ENGINE INFORMATION
Engine Block Type: Ford
Engine Size: 289 How Many Cylinders: 8
Bore: 4" Stroke: 2.87" Compression Ratio: 9.8
Intake Manifold Type: Edelbrock Performer
Cylinder Head(s) Year: 1967, 2V, 289 Windsor
Ported Heads: No, only larger valves
Intake Valve Size: 1.84" Exhaust Valve Size: 1.47-1.54”
Rocker Arm Type: Stock Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.6
Exhaust Header(s): Yes (Primaries: 1.5”, Secondaries: 1.75”, Outlet: 2.25”)
Exhaust Type: Single
Exhaust Pipe Size: 3"
RPM Range: 1000 to 4300
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FUEL DELIVERY
Fuel Type: Gasoline Fuel Octane Rating: 98
Carburetor Size: 525-575cfm Barry Grant (Road – Speed Demon)
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APPLICATION SPECIFICS
How Will This Engine Be Used?
Performance Street
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Camshaft:
COMP

GRIND NUMBER FS XE256H
HYDRAULIC
INT EXH
DUR @.050 212 218

MAX GROSS VALVE LIFT .477 .484

DUR @ .006 TAPPET LIFT 256 268 LOBE SEPARATION 110.0

VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE
.006 INT 25 57
EXH 69 21

NOTE: If I use this camshaft it will be with a 575 speed Demon

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Other Comments:
I want at least std. low speed torque with optimum performance between 1500-3700rmp, idle quality and economy are not required.

 

What's your budget?

 

Yeah, how many bones you got to spend?

 

that combo will work, althogh peak power will be about 4500 but it will really come alive in midrange, be sure and use the matching springs from comp to get optimal performance also make sure your rockers dont bind on the ex.

As far as the exhaust, why a single 3"? you will get better performance with dual 2 1/4 and an H or x pipe. I would also advise doing a port match on the exhaust ports or at least grind off the thermactor bumps. I would change the intake mani choice to a weiand 8124 it will give a nice power increase over a std performer all the way around or an rpm as it will take more advantage of the cam profile
, I would also add a good ignition system and a recurved distributor. I would run the 575 speed demon carb with annular boosters so to add low end TQ. If your going to run a single 3" run a dynomax super hemi turbo 19" muffler if you can, or a magnaflow, the dynomax will make more TQ and wont drone at all.

 

Budget doesn't really matter. Basically I want to use my existing bottom end and heads (without porting them) but all the other bolt on parts can be varied from what I have listed as I have not purchased anything yet (inlet manifold, headers, carby, cam, overhead gear, etc.). I can also alter the compression ratio and valve sizes a little.

I want to use a single pipe because that's all they had (poor reason I know, because they weren't 3" anyway) and a 3" pipe with a straight through muffler can handle upto 350fwhp, I don't think I'll get that much.

The Australian heads don't have thermactor bumps because they never had thermactors. But I will clean up the rough castings.

I'll have a look at the Weiand inlet.

What adavance (static and total, and at what rpm) would you recommend? With which igniton system?

Thanks for the comments!

Does anyone think I will loose too much bottom end with this cam and the tall 2.92 gears. I'm really after optimum performance between 1500-3700rpm (with a total operating range of 1000-4500rpm.

 

I can get the Weiand $AUD140 (~$110 US) cheaper than the Edelbrock Performer and $AUD320 cheaper than the RMP Airgap here in Australia and it sounds as good (idle-5500rpm is the right range too), possibly better! I'm a bit worried about how it will perform between idle and 2,000rpm though.

 

I ran the 8124 on my 302 from idle-6,500rpm without issue, it operates very well at low rpm. You might want to consider a hyd roller cam conversion for better performance, not sure about the oiling issues for you guys outside the US, but flat tappets in the States here get tore up by modern oils if they're not broken in methodically.

Since you're not looking for power over 4,500rpm the stock heads are fine, a cam with an idle-4,500/5,000rpm range, the Weiand 8124 intake, and a small carb. If you want it to run really well you could go for a custom cam, but it'd be more money. I'd keep the compression under 9.5:1 with a small cam setup, that's really more than you need anyway with the right cam. As for a carb, it really depends on how good you are at tuning them, how much you understand and how much you're willing to spend, but a 525 Demon would work well, I like Quick Fuel myself for more tuning flexibility.

 

You really do need to clean up the exhaust ports. The stock 289/302 exhaust port castings plain suck. They're absolutely horrible. At the very least you should open them up, although aftermarket heads would be better.

I'd strongly recommend dual exhaust. For one, it sounds so much better. Second, it's not difficult to route. Probably easier than a single 3" pipe.

I will second the Weiand intake. Definitely a good choice. Also second the matching valve springs. The XE cams have a really aggressive ramp which can tend to launch the lifters off the cam lobes at higher rpm's. You probably won't get that high with that particular cam, but proper valve springs will ensure you don't have any valve float issues.

Those 2.90 gears are going to kill you. I switched from 2.79's to 3.25's a couple years ago and it made a bigger difference in acceleration than my entire 331 build. If you're worried about freeway cruising, 3.25 gears will still allow you to drive 70+ on the freeway. You may not get the same efficiency, but it's perfectly doable. I can cruise at 65-80mph with my 3.25's and 24" tires.

 

if your going to keep those gears you may want to go one step down on the xe cam.

 

Seems like the Weiand manifold is very popular! I’ll most likely go with one of them.

New oils are just starting to become a problem in Australia, we're a bit behind you guys, but additives are available.

I was planning on new valve springs anyway as the 40 year old ones are pretty weak now, so I'll get a kit from Comp which includes the cam, springs and lifters.

I'll clean up the burrs on the heads, especially on the exhaust side as they are quiet rough, but I don’t plan on doing any other port work.

I will not be changing my diff gears, even though they are rather tall and my acceleration could be improved. When I do drive on the freeway it is for a long time, so I don't want it doing over 3000rpm at 110km/hr (~68mph). I could go to around 3.1-3.2:1but I don’t plan on it, as I don't intend on racing the car at all.