Pulsation / Vibration only when turning right
I used one of the MS swap valves. I would suspect this part too, but I had the vib with the PS also...
Negative.
The swap was my first time ever doing new wheel bearings. I wonder if I toasted one or both. Didn't have the correct size socket for proper torque so I just did the snug down till it starts to grab then back off a 1/4-1/2 turn...
The swap was my first time ever doing new wheel bearings. I wonder if I toasted one or both. Didn't have the correct size socket for proper torque so I just did the snug down till it starts to grab then back off a 1/4-1/2 turn...
I would think when you put the front end on a lift so that the wheels are off the ground, you could shake the tires. If they are solid, bearings should be good. If there is slop then maybe a bad bearing.
Did you replace the tie rod ends when you did the swap? The Granada tie rod taper is larger than the Mustang's I believe.
Have you read anything about bump steer? It is often caused from a geometry problem from modifying steering components. Did you do anything to correct bump steer from the swap?
My guess is you have slack in the steering linkage somewhere or possibly a geometry issue.
Did you replace the tie rod ends when you did the swap? The Granada tie rod taper is larger than the Mustang's I believe.
Have you read anything about bump steer? It is often caused from a geometry problem from modifying steering components. Did you do anything to correct bump steer from the swap?
My guess is you have slack in the steering linkage somewhere or possibly a geometry issue.
My dad and brother recently rebuilt a 1968 Chevy Corvette and while driving, they had a similar vibration and popping sound when turning to the right.
Their problem turned out to be with the u-joints and rear axles. They replaced the u-joints and polished the axles and the vibration and popping went away.
Hope that was helpful somehow.
Their problem turned out to be with the u-joints and rear axles. They replaced the u-joints and polished the axles and the vibration and popping went away.
Hope that was helpful somehow.
Did you replace the tie rod ends when you did the swap? The Granada tie rod taper is larger than the Mustang's I believe.
Have you read anything about bump steer? It is often caused from a geometry problem from modifying steering components. Did you do anything to correct bump steer from the swap?
Have you read anything about bump steer? It is often caused from a geometry problem from modifying steering components. Did you do anything to correct bump steer from the swap?
It was my understanding that CSRP's new spindles are supposed to take care of the bump steer / geometry issue, so I haven't taken any measures to correct bump steer. I've had it on the road a fair bit and haven't noticed any bump steer.
I think my next course of action will be pull the bearings, inspect, repack and get the right socket to properly torque them. Then go through and recheck and retorque all the steering components once again...
My dad and brother recently rebuilt a 1968 Chevy Corvette and while driving, they had a similar vibration and popping sound when turning to the right.
Their problem turned out to be with the u-joints and rear axles. They replaced the u-joints and polished the axles and the vibration and popping went away.
Hope that was helpful somehow.
Their problem turned out to be with the u-joints and rear axles. They replaced the u-joints and polished the axles and the vibration and popping went away.
Hope that was helpful somehow.
Interesting, all those parts are new too... Maybe I'll rotate the driveshaft 180* and see if that does anything.
That's the crappy part about having everything be brand new, narrowing down trouble parts turns into a chore.... Thanks for the advice.


