Some of you may remember a few days ago, I took the head off a bolt in the starter bolt hole with no idea how to get it out. I got pretty irritated at myself and the whole situation and sat it out for a while. Is there anyway to fix what I did short of pulling the engine to get at the hole? it's the far one to the right and even if i knew how a left hand drill bit and an e-z out might not fit in there.

 

Post a pic.

 

Sorry for the late post. I had to sit this one out for awhile. I got pretty po'ed and just let it sit for a week and a half before I even went in my garage to look at it again. But I'm back on the horse, so here goes:

 

also, what is this type of rust caused by and how do I fix it, eventually?

 

If you spray the bolt with some penetrating lube (Kroil or PB Blaster, not WD-40) and hit it with a propane torch until it gets nice and hot, you should be able to get a pair of vise-grips on it and turn it out.

 

or heat it with a torch and melt some candle wax into the threads. it'll wick into the threads and lube things up. much less fire and smoke with candle wax.

that rust looks pretty normal. i had a spot like the first pic on my mostly rust-free '67. you just cut it out and replace the metal. it's flat so you can just use sheet instead of buying a replacement panel.

 

I know about the wax and the tourch tricks...the thing is, is that the threads are messed up...I dont think I stripped them or anything, but you know how you can turn a screw into a thread the wrong way and if you keep pushing it it it will usually right it self out again? same thing here, that's how I snapped it off...

so getting a grip on it or loosening it up is gonne be tricky. I already tried with some locking pliers. didnt work. but I didnt think it would either.

if and when I go the blowtorch method, how hot do i get it and when do I try to pull it out? red hot, or just hot? and is that metal "gasket" of sorts any matter?

 

Ok this may sound like heresy, but the later models (Fox body) only used 2 bolts in the starter. Seems like the 2 you have are opposing each other so maybe just use those 2 if you can't get it out.

 

heat the stud until it starts to get red but don't heat the bellhousing that hot. also forget the visegrips and the easyouts. they won't work. I found the tools in the link below to work well with or without heat.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ProductDetails

 

That metal gasket is the spacer plate between the block and transmission. It absolutely HAS to be in there but it won't hurt it at all to get it hot. As for the bolt, it looks like it could be drilled out to me using regular drill bits. A drill is about the same size as the starter so it should fit but I don't have the car in front of me so I can't be certain. I also think you could probably get away with just using the other two starter bolts but you will have to make some sort of bracket to support the transmission dipstick/fill tube and attach it to another bolt.

The rust is typical Mustang rust on the inner fender aprons. Water gets up between the overlapped parts of the aprons and rusts them out. You can do as was mentioned and cut out the rust and replace with metal but your rust is pretty bad and you really should probably replace the fender apron panels.