64.5stanger

170i6 1100 single barrel wont keep running unless it is given 1/8-1/4inch of throtle (@ the carb). If I lean my choke will this help, it is full rich now and clean

Gun Jam

sounds like classic symptoms of an obstructed low speed circuit..

I think a piece of dirt has found its way into a low speed carb circuit....if the car runs great at cruise speed but dies unless you pull the choke at idle....

-Gun

64.5stanger

I just cleaned fuel filter and carb,n sprayed through every hole in the carb they all seem clear. when I was cleanin carb i took cover off of choke reassembled but left the cap spring unwound. the car is pre-resto n needs to be jumped if it dies (guess the generator is shot

Gun Jam

well maybe the idle screw isnt set right

Or its a totally different problem all together.

1) Does it drive okay above 20mph...if its not drivable does it run great above 1/4 throttle?

2) how much choke does it take to get the engine to stay running at idle? 50%?

-Gun

1slow67

My 67 is picky about its idle. It doesn't seem to like under 1k. I have a 200ci I6 with a couple mods.

kalli

keep the car running (using jabs of the trottle if needed) until the engine is warm.
when engine is warm make sure the throttle is off (top butterfly open).

Then adjust low curb idle and mixture unti car keeps running.
If you have to screw in the curb idle so far that the engine keeps running at 1500+ and not under that check for vacuum leaks.

MetalEd

I barely know the carb but I do have the same year, engine and carb. and I had similar problems. Mine turned out to be rust/sludge in the tank along with "varnished" old gas. So no matter how many times I changed both filters, it would partially clog them causing no fuel to go through at lower RPMs (Not to mention the gunk clogging up my needle requiring 3 rebuilds!). New tank and cleaning/rebuilding everything else was the cure on my car.(3rd filter/screen on the sending unit was decomposed and clogged as well!)
Go back to the starting setup with your carb. Start by adjusting the mixture right. The screw on the right (Passenger), turn it in all the way to seat the needle (just touching, if you tighten too much it may damage the needle.) Then turn it out 2 1/2 turns. This is the starting point for your air/fuel mixture and will need to be adjusted later. Try starting it here and then lean/rich it out to smooth the idle. Adjust your cold and hot idle.
The manuals say that idle should be at around 500-525. But on the older cars like these that is unrealistic. I've noticed a good Idle is around 700-1000. I can set mine at about 550rpms, but it is so low it shakes and wants to die. Mine runs beautifully at 800-850rpms
If this helped your idle, then I would adjust your timing and then go back to the carb and adjust the mixture and then both idle screws to their lowest good settings. You may have to go back and forth a few times to get it running nice at lowest RPMs
DO check your vacuum advance from the distributor if the stall at idle continues..
The manuals have the full tuning procedure for the carb, but this is where I would start (If all your fuel filters are new/clean)
Is it stalling just when at idle (starting/running) or does it stall when going from high RPMs (driving) to idle (stoplights etc..)? This would be a different problem with the antistall dashpot.
Post your results and more info if this doesn't help.

64.5stanger

got er runnin good w/out the pedal assembly hooked up. had the fatherinlaw over i tryed to start by making sure the choke was mostly closed, it seem like it needed some throtle to let the choke close. i tryed to start by crossing the solenoid kind of spit nd sputtered mby to much throttle, soon as he left I turned key and fired right up, i went and ran through the r's probly 4500 or so till i got scarred by the old belt. than tryed to hook up throtle link n it wanted to die seems like the linkage pulls the throtle closed too much otherwise idled down nice?

kalli

it's not the linkage that usually shuts the carb closed it's the return spring for the linkage.
there is a big screw at the linkage (usually with a tiny spring around it so it can't noddle loose) that is called the curb idle screw.
Turn that one in (close until the car idles nicely). has to be done with car warm.


here's a diagram:
http://www.ponycarburetors.com/images/pdfs/1100.pdf

at the very bottom of diagram: "idle speed screw". this is what is giving a positive stop to the throttle linkage

64.5stanger

thanx guys, good lookn out