So when I replace my front suspension I figured I might as well replace my brake pads and turn my rotors as well. What options should I look into? Ceramic or semi-metallic?

I've heard that if my rotors aren't made for ceramic pads then the ceramic pads will eat them away fast. I'm assuming what's on my car now is stock stuff so then that wouldn't be good. The characteristic I like about the ceramic though is that they don't make noise we can hear. I want to get rid of any squealing and squeaking my front end makes, and recently it's my brakes that started making a little bit of noise in conjunction with my suspension.

Will the semi-metallic pads make noise regardless? or if I install it properly and the rotors are turned will they be fine?

any advice is appreciated. I've also only replaced my drum brakes so any advice on how to replace the pads and whatnot is welcome, even though I understand it to be easier than brake shoes...

Thanks!

 

Ceramics won't chew up your rotors. Street ceramics are actually easier on rotors than semi-metallics. Like you said, they do tend to be quieter as they don't transmit vibration quite as well. They also don't dust up the wheels like metallics. Unfortunately, they also fade at a lower temp.

Semi-metallics don't fade as fast, but they're harder on rotors and can sometimes be squeak prone, especially if not lubed properly. People that refuse to buy $2 worth of synthetic brake grease with their pads bug the crap out of me. When you get there, ask and I'll tell you where to put the grease.

Basically, if you plan on doing some heavy performance driving, get some good semi metallics or carbon metallics. If you're just going to cruise around with it, ceramics will be fine.

Keep in mind, you'll have to replace the grease seals and repack the wheel bearings when you remove the rotors. Messy, but you might as well while you've got everything apart.

 

^^Man knows his brakes!

 

Thanks for the info Tad, you always come to the rescue haha. I don't think I'll be doing some heavy performance driving, but I will want to test out my new suspension here and there I'm more of a cruiser/straight line guy with some fun thrown in occasionally

I might just get the semi-metallics then since I'm assuming they are cheaper, and if lubing it will take care of any noise I'm fine with that. I'm not too concerned with brake dust because I take care of my car... Brake fade on the ceramics kind of scare me too. I'll definitely buy some brake grease too then as per your recommendation.

What's involved in replacing the grease seal and repacking bearings? If it doesn't require any special tools or anything I'm all for it, I just haven't read anything on doing this stuff. What grease should I buy for the bearings and upper control arm? I don't think my control arms are pre-packed like my tie rods were so I'm going to pick up some grease and some 90° zerk fittings, and I guess I need to get a grease gun too haha



As a side note, I got all of my front suspension stuff today except my springs (coming tomorrow apparently). It's an early christmas and it is making me very anxious to tear down my car... As soon as this rain goes away I'm going at it. Hopefully my roller spring perches get here sometime next week, I ordered them yesterday and I hear he's quick on shipping. I'm also going to take my time doing everything, probably going to detail my fender wells and repaint some stuff like my calipers, spindles and strut rods. What color do you all think? I'm probably just going to paint my calipers a cast color, will probably do the same for the spindles. The strut rods I guess I'll paint black.

 

get a set of wagner thermoquiet pads.

prolly run you $60 for the front set but last i knew they were supposed to have a 'lifetime' warranty on them.

they are a hell of a pad too i think. i have them on my 65 (shoes) and on my 02 monte that i drive daily in chicago.

very very little dust, you noticed the dirt from the road more then any dust (if you can even see the brake dust) and they are a damn good performance wise.

 

I like to know what I'm selling so I can answer questions when a customer comes in Doesn't help if you give them a blank stare when they ask you what the difference is between ceramic, metallic, and organic.

Honestly, I'm not a huge fan of Wagner TQ's. And I sell the things. They tend to be a little more squeak prone than some of the higher end pads out there. Rangoon, you wouldn't run into any of the same issues with TQ shoes as with pads. Shoes are shoes, pretty much, unless you get into some high dollar stuff. David, brake fade only occurs at high temps, meaning after a couple really hard stops. I've yet to enounter any kind of fade with my organic pads, which fade at an even lower temp than most ceramics. Granted, my 4-piston calipers help dissipate heat faster than your single piston calipers will, but even then. The only places you'd really run into fade issues would be a track, autocross, or if you came out with me and the SLO car club on a "cruise." The way I drive my car, I'll be looking for some Carbon-Cermamic or Carbon-Kevlar pads the next time I redo the front.

For paint, make sure you clean those calipers really, really well. You may even sandblast them. Then pick up some high temp exhaust or caliper paint. I prefer cast as well, but that's personal preference. For the chassis/suspension, use Semi-Gloss black. Matches the factory paint fairly well, just don't lay it on super thick or it'll get too glossy.

You need different grease for the bearings and suspension. The bearings need disc brake bearing grease, which can be found at any auto parts store. For the suspension, I like black moly-based grease, but red EP grease works well too. Again, either can be found in any parts store.

You don't need any special tools for the bearings/seals. There is a bit if a trick to getting the seals in straight, but it's not difficult. You do need to clean and grease the bearings properly, but I can walk you through that. Torqueing down the hub nut properly is the most critical part of the whole venture.

Give me or Jon a call if you have any questions.

 

Cool sounds good, I looked up how to pack bearings the manual way and found a pretty good tutorial and stuff, sounds pretty easy. Basically what it sounds, pack the grease in each chamber repeatedly until it starts coming out the back side. I'll probably give you a call though, depending of if my dad knows how to do it or not. The seals and stuff I'm sure I'll get a better idea of what to do once I tear it down and get the discs off.

Today I'm going to go buy the rest of the stuff, this great autoparts store near my house should have some (or all) pads that have a lifetime warranty. Now Tad you said you have Organic pads? I saw those online, are those a good option for me as well instead of the semi-metallics?

Too many decisions! haha I'll also buy the seals and new flexible brake line from wheel to body at that shop or Mustang Country just up the street... that and my strut rod bushings should take care of everything.

 

I forgot to mention, "lifetime warranty" on brake pads doesn't mean you get free replacements for life, it means the pads have a warranty against defects until they wear out.

Organics are pretty much low-grade stuff. They work, but they fade quicker than ceramics even. I don't have an option at most parts houses for mine. When I get around to it, I'll start looking at pads from Hawk.

Make sure to get the rear hose while you're replacing hoses. And flush the system out really good.

 

I hate semi metallic pads. They tear the crap out of the rotors.

 

No this place is great, they told my dad when he bought pads for his truck that if he just brings the pads back before the rivets show they will replace them no problem. This is a great shop that's been around since my dad was a kid, and I don't know how they do it, but they almost always have everything in stock, and if not they get it from their warehouse later that day or next day.

semi-metallics really aren't THAT bad on the rotors are they? If I get new rotors then I might just get ceramics to not do too much damage if semi-metallics really are that harsh...

just ONE more thing, should I get a caliper rebuild kit? My local mustang shop has one that includes new piston seals and dust boots for like $12 a caliper. I'm sure mine don't need it, but basically I'm just trying to find out if there's anything I should do for maintenance on my calipers before I reassemble everything.

If their rotars are inexpensive I'm going to just buy new rotors, mine are looking pretty old. My dad's huge truck rotors were only like $90 so we'll see...

I inspected my hoses and it looks like my driver side one is fine/looks replaced but the passenger one is frayed and maybe leaking and one of the junctions. By the rear one you mean the one going to the junction on the differential? I'll check and see if it needs it but I those damn hoses are expensive! haha