Drove the new setup
After some break in time I finally spent a couple hours driving the the 347 around town. Car flat out screams and really wants to pull hard all the way up to probably 7k. When I got on it hard I shifted at ~6200 and she was still climbing.
My question is what kind of checks should I run on the new motor. Should I pull a headcover and take a look at valve geo? Already fixed any leaks. oil pressure is good. changed oil after first fire-up. Running a break-in lube with sae 10-30 right now. running 15 deg initial timing. car is too damn loud to hear any pinging.
specs are
347 all forged internals
H beam rods
afr 185s 58cc
valve springs from jay allen
airgap intake (ported)
xe282hr cam .574 lift
1 5/8 shorty headers (ground clearance)
1.6 magnum roller rockers
compression should be 10.7-10.9 maybe 11.0
weak point is the carb right now. 600 cfm edel. jetted as rich as she'll go
My question is what kind of checks should I run on the new motor. Should I pull a headcover and take a look at valve geo? Already fixed any leaks. oil pressure is good. changed oil after first fire-up. Running a break-in lube with sae 10-30 right now. running 15 deg initial timing. car is too damn loud to hear any pinging.
specs are
347 all forged internals
H beam rods
afr 185s 58cc
valve springs from jay allen
airgap intake (ported)
xe282hr cam .574 lift
1 5/8 shorty headers (ground clearance)
1.6 magnum roller rockers
compression should be 10.7-10.9 maybe 11.0
weak point is the carb right now. 600 cfm edel. jetted as rich as she'll go
If anything, I'd expect you to have to jet the carb lean, not rich. The carb will flow more than 600CFM on a motor that needs it, and that one does. The extra airflow should pull more fuel out of the jets than on a smaller displacement motor that better matches the carb.
What I'd be worried about is the Edelbrock leaning out at higher rpm's. From what I've heard, it seems that it's a common problem with them. I don't see the problem too much with my 331 that pulls to 6200, although I've never put a sniffer on it to find out for sure. I recall Kalli had a big problem with that, though.
What do the plugs look like?
What I'd be worried about is the Edelbrock leaning out at higher rpm's. From what I've heard, it seems that it's a common problem with them. I don't see the problem too much with my 331 that pulls to 6200, although I've never put a sniffer on it to find out for sure. I recall Kalli had a big problem with that, though.
What do the plugs look like?
in hindsight my problem with the edelbrock carb was fuel delivery. the pump wasn't good enough. the carb would run myh system empty when I floored it. I cured it with the holley 125 pump (the really big and heavy thing) and new piping, regulator. ni did lots of stupid things like mounting an electric pump in front
I've sold the edl carb, otherwise I would have tried that one again.
what do you have as max timing with vacuum disconnected, and at what revs?
and as Tad said, pull plugs. if you are too far advanced, you'll have tiny black spots on the insulator. like when putting very fine ground pepper on it.
oh and try driving up a a hill that has a wall on drivers side with window open. I once heard pinging that way. it seems to be the only way I can check for that. seemed to have reflected engine noise back in that way
I've sold the edl carb, otherwise I would have tried that one again.
what do you have as max timing with vacuum disconnected, and at what revs?
and as Tad said, pull plugs. if you are too far advanced, you'll have tiny black spots on the insulator. like when putting very fine ground pepper on it.
oh and try driving up a a hill that has a wall on drivers side with window open. I once heard pinging that way. it seems to be the only way I can check for that. seemed to have reflected engine noise back in that way
Last edited by kalli; Feb 13, 2010 at 05:58 AM.
oh and for the carb and cfm, hook up a vacuum gauge that you can monitor. you'll have 0 vacuum on WOT, if engine speed increases and it starts rising, as in you suddenly get vacuum above 6000 rpm, then you'll need a bigger carb, worst case scenario the metering rods come down again with the vacuum->very lean
Star--this carb was running lean on my old set up. truth will be told when i pull the plugs. havent done that yet. My motor feels like it will want to pull to 7k. but i think keeping it around 6500 will keep the motor together.
Tim--yes there are dynos near by but Ill wait till I have my new carb.
Kalli--The only vacum i have hooked up is to the pcv valve. timing is at 35 total at 3000rpms
Tim--yes there are dynos near by but Ill wait till I have my new carb.
Kalli--The only vacum i have hooked up is to the pcv valve. timing is at 35 total at 3000rpms
can't you get a vacuum gauge (you probably have one), attach to manifold port at carb and get an extra long hose so you can have someone monitoring while driving?
I checked in desktop dyno and from your setup it doesn't seem to make extra power at 7000, peak at around 6500, so i'd leave it there. just to be safe if the carb goes lean until you figured that one out. timing sounds reasonable, but definelty pull plugs straight after a WOT run. a plug inspector would help, with a light you might be ablke to see WOT ring way down on insulator
I checked in desktop dyno and from your setup it doesn't seem to make extra power at 7000, peak at around 6500, so i'd leave it there. just to be safe if the carb goes lean until you figured that one out. timing sounds reasonable, but definelty pull plugs straight after a WOT run. a plug inspector would help, with a light you might be ablke to see WOT ring way down on insulator
Congratulations. Now you know what real power is. You need at least a 750 cfm carb. Look at the Demon RS models and you can change the cfm's by switching out the sleeves and base plate if you go big. The Demons actually flow more than what they are rated. Holley carbs are misleading as far as the cfm ratings they give you. Get your cam card and go to Demons website. You can figure out what you need there.


