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engine rebuild questions

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #1  
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waldo786
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Default engine rebuild questions

How do I know what kit to purchase to have my engine rebuilt. Not sure if I need a Master kit that includes the cam and everything else, or just an overhaul kit that doesn't include the cam, or just simply a ring kit. Any good way to tell what needs to be replaced, or should i just assume because of the age of the car I should just replace everything. The kits I'm looking at are here.

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/rebuildkitsford.html
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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removes intake and (a) Head(s) feel where the piston ends its stroke on the cylinder wall, if it catches a fingernail it is reccomended you have it machined and oversize pistons. If it doesnt snag a nail you'd be better off to throw a cam in it while your at it, but you can get away with rings and gaskets.
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 03:52 AM
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Are you doing it yourself? If you are having a builder do it ask him. I'm sure he has a kit that he would perfer. If you are doing it yourself I would say that your level of knowledge is a little short of where it needs to be to do a home rebuild. Don't take that personally but there are many little tricks to a rebuild that you will not know unless you have done a bunch of them. What about machine work? You can count on it needing machine work. What about bearings? You didn't mention them. You will need bearings rings and gaskets at a minimum. If you are going to replace the cam do the lifters at the same time. There is a lot to it so it is hard to answer your question.
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Flat tappet cams wear out a lot faster than roller cams. If you're overhauling the engine, I'd replace the cam, timing chain and gears, and lifters.

My suggestion is not to buy anything until you take the engine apart. Then you'll know if you need oversized pistons, and how much, and if the crank needs to be cut.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 06:30 AM
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You NEVER know what an engine will need until it is apart and everything is properly measured. Using the fingernail on the ring ridge is not a good way to diagnose cylinder condition. The only way to know is to mic the cylinders looking for taper and egg shape. If you don't have mics and know how to use them, most any automotive machine shop can and will do this for you.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 06:38 AM
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Yep, let your machine shop tell you what to order, they have the proper measuring instruments and do it all the time.

As for doing the rebuild yourself, it is doable but you need to study some beforehand. It also helps to have a friend to help out, even if that friend is no more knowledgable than you. Become real good friends with your machinist and they can give you a ton of tips.

I think I've seen some video "how-to" things, not sure if DVD or free on the net. Search around and you can find a wealth of information, take it all in and ask questions here when needed.

Building your first ending is very rewarding. Good luck.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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If the "How to Rebuild Your Small Block Ford" is as good as the other books in the series, it should be the only book you will need.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
You NEVER know what an engine will need until it is apart and everything is properly measured. Using the fingernail on the ring ridge is not a good way to diagnose cylinder condition. The only way to know is to mic the cylinders looking for taper and egg shape. If you don't have mics and know how to use them, most any automotive machine shop can and will do this for you.

2 out of 2 Master techs agree!!

You can just stuff new rings, bearings, oil pump, and gaskets into an engine and disregard the shape of the cylinders, but the chances of it burning oil and having blow by are very high. This is the very cheap short term route that you take when you dont care about the engine and it just has to last you another few thousand miles. You are very lucky to get 20,000 more out of one like that. All that carbon left from gasoline wears the engine inside out the same way it would if you left machining grit or sand in it, its just a bit slower.

As a matter of habit and just wanting an engine that will last, I just punch my engine builds .030 and use new pistons, rings, bearings, and some engines get new rods too. If I see plenty of crosshatch or it is already bored when I pull the heads, that changes things, it might be relatively fresh so I start checking things with a micrometer. It also might be beyond repair depending on what block it is and how much has been removed from the cylinders.

At the very least, have the block tanked and cleaned, then have them check the cylinders, decks, mains, and the entire block for cracks. If everything is ok, then you can have them install cam bearings, freeze plugs, and galley plugs.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I'd thought a little about trying this myself, but from your responses I'm definitely going to take it to a shop and have them do it so they can diagnose all the things that were mentioned here. I can see I don't have enough knowledge and experience yet to do this kind of thing myself.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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By do it, I assume that you mean the measuring. There's absolutely nothing wrong and lots of things right with rebuilding the engine yourself. We are just encouraging you to measure or have things measured, before you make decisions, much the same as a doctor examines before he prescribes.



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