I'm going to have to agree with what most of everyone has said so far. The steering is fine, unless there are some major problems with it just leave it alone, i would worry about stopping the car and making the car ride better. Just my opinion though.

 

Hi,
I just did the Shelby drop. Made a huge difference! The one part you need to buy that is not a stock part are roller spring perches. They are stock spring perches that have been modified with rollerbearings. I bought everything I needed from Opentracker. They sell the special stuff you need to do the shelby drop and the roller spring perches. My car never handled good. Now it drives great.
Good luck,
Walt

 

The upper control arm relocation is for the stock UCA and it works great. If you buy an aftermarket setup, you will want to check and make sure that they didn't build the same effect into the new design. The Mustang 2 suspension is a great suspension. Hot Rodders everywhere with all makes and model cars use a Mustang 2 suspension. I don't think it is the best way to go for you because there are a lot of great setups that are made for what you have without cutting and welding on the frame. It will end up being cheaper and easier for you in the long run. I think the best brake kit to go with is the one from www.mustangsteve.com. It is a little more expensive than some of the others, but it is great. It is basically putting the modern Cobra brakes on your Mustang. You can just get his brackets and find the rotors and calipers from a salvage yard if you want. There are a ton of ways that you can go.

 

The stock steering box may need replacement. Flaming River makes new boxes with a quicker 16:1 ratio like the GT and Shelby cars had, but it has upgraded bearing designs to reduce friction. Also in mid 67 they switched to short shaft steering columns that were collapsible, so they had a rag joint between the box and column, that likely needs replacing as well, in addition to ball joints, idler arm etc. It will make your steering as tight as a new R&P but with better feel, especially on center. Manual steering always requires effort to work because there's no assist...MANual steering. Or the old joke about armstrong power steering.

As far as the Mustang 2, it's picked by a lot of hot rodders because it's a convenient and affordable package for a rod that starts with 0 suspension, and it's easy to get parts for, not because it's necessarily the best thing out there. The factory Mustang suspension is a better package than a Mustang 2 front end, and the only reason a Classic would need a M2 is to fit an engine so large you need to cut shock towers and can't use the factory upper a arm any more. But the problem with that is the M2 forces the chassis to support a suspension layout it wasn't designed for, and it has a tendency to move around, in addition to having less capability than the standard Mustang layout. A Classic Mustang with a M2 handles worse than one running the stock type suspension.

 

Any suggestions in the suspension set up. Ive been seeing a lot of suspension & steering kits like these:

http://www.laurelmountainmustangpart...on-p-7326.html

what do you guys think? the only other think i would add is the roller bearing spring perches.

Good? Crap? overpriced. has anyone used a kit like this one, or maybe one from another site?

 

That's pretty much my exact setup except I have 1" drop springs instead of stock ride height.

 

I have suspension from Laurel Mountain on mine, works great, good quality.

 

I just finished my front end. Handles great and works fine. Here are my thoughts:

First off alot of new parts are crap!! I had to go through two sets of upper and lower control arms. Save yourself alot of time and talk to Opentracker racing about modifications to stock. He woundn't mod my upper control arms because he said they were inadequate or even unsafe. He wasn't trying to make any money and told me where to buy new ones.
He modified my shafts and sent them back to me in a hurry.
I installed adjustable strut rods, Modified UCA with 1 degree of caster added, eccentric kit for camber( and to move the front wheels in) and the most important roller spring perches. In addition I did the shelby drop and 1 inch lowered 620 springs.

Alignment was a pain until I was able to lower the wheels on moveable plates of sheetmetal with grease inbetween. Then the adjustments could be accurately measured.

Originally I bought a complete suspension set from Sac Mustang and they squeeked and the travel seemed to bind. Now the setup is nice and free and stiff. The ride is not harsh and it handles well. The stock parts are pretty good and with some modifications the car has improved significantly.

 

That looks like a nice suspension kit, but what is the overal condition of the car MECHANICALLY. I would suggest getting everything in top shape before you dive into modifications.

Since you are currently focused on the front suspension and steering start by raising the car safely with the front wheels suspended in the air. THEN apply the "Four P's; push, pull, pry and prod" on all joints in the front end. Anything that's loose, replace it. Parts are plentiful and cheap.

Once everything is tight, aligned and lubricated, THEN drive it and decide on any mods. At that point, the Shelby drop would be a great starting point.

Unless you're 5 feet tall and weigh 75 pounds, driving an early Mustang with no power steering is a piece of cake. You will only know the difference when you're parking it. In fact I would bet that if you got underneath the car as it sets right now with a grease gun and went all over it, you would find the car easy to steer.

I have a much heavier 64 Galaxie with manual steering and it steers fine. You just have to remember that these cars require frequent application of a grease gun.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have a great starting point for really reasonable money. Keep us posted.

 

YES!! Grease in all the moving parts of the steering reduces a ton of friction. A good extreme pressure moly lube from some place like Napa is good.