Hey guys,

I have a 66 mustang coupe, so everyone knows what car we are talking about.

Has anyone had to replace the sheet metal in the rear trunk area with the rear quarter panels? I have to replace everything from the rear window back and both quarters along with the outer wheel houses. The rest of the car is in really good shape.

I am not sure where to start. I already have the tail light panel, rear fuel tank cross member, rear valance and the drivers trunk bottom off that attaches to the inner and outer wheel house and the quarter panel, it sits on top of the rear frame rail (Just so there is no confusion).

I have to replace the rear frame rail and my biggest question is how to keep the rear frame rail lined up exactly as the old one was. It is just kind of hanging out there in the open with nothing to really go off of for alignment. I was going to use the quarter panel but without the tail light housing the rear of the quarter is flimsy.

Should I do the quarters first? Then attach the tail light panel with the rear cross member. My quarters are skins, I got them on sale for $41 so that is why I went with skins.

Here is a link to see pics
<a href="http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/yy166/jpkmeadows/1966%20Mustang%20Project/1966%20Mustang%20Trunk%20panels%20removed/1966%20Mustang%20Trunk%20panels/?action=view&current=IMG_0349.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy166/jpkmeadows/1966%20Mustang%20Project/1966%20Mustang%20Trunk%20panels%20removed/1966%20Mustang%20Trunk%20panels/IMG_0349.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame rail floating"></a>

Sorry so long and thanks for the help.

Jeff

 

Gotta 66 coupe myself, replaced the trunk down panel, rear valance, rear cross member, and left quarter. I'm just a joe back yard mechanic and this is just a hobby but I'll try to give you some insight. Use a plumb-bob and digital meter. The plumb-bob makes sure it's accurate left to right and front to back, and the digital level meter makes sure it's level with the opposite subframe. Height can be check with a tape measure. Mark your ref's on the ground for the old sub-frame before removing it. Weld in your new subframe after you match the ref points.

 

Do one part at a time. Use the rest as reference points. If you cut the whole back off you have nothing to help line up the panels. If you leave the trunk lid--for example--you could use that and the tailpanel to line up the quarters. Then use the quarter and trunk to locate the tailpan etc etc

 

My frame rail was still lined up but rusted. I took careful measurements between them and to the garage floor (on both sides). I then bought long all-thread rod and used that to make a makeshift jig to line up the new frame rail extension to the same points as the old one. Not as fancy as a well-built jig but it worked well enough to get it straight (according to the wheel alignment guy the car is straight).