Yes, the car came with a Drive Train. It also came with a 351w Block.

I've also already ran all the numbers on the car, and it checks out. Was one of the first things I did, because if it wasn't worth restoring to me, I wouldn't have come here looking for help.

 

With a coupe donor the only sheet metal you need you could use is the door and floor pan and some of the interior stuff like dash console maybe front seats.

 

Thank you, this helps me out a bit, as I had someone selling a '69 Coupe and was thinking of grabbing it for spare parts down the line.

 

So, after making some calls today, I've decided to buy all the metal that I "think" I need. After, I'm planning to buy a MIG Welder from a guy at work for $100.

So far my list is the following:

Taillight Panel
Full Quarter Panel, Passenger Side
Full Quarter Panel, Driver Side
Complete 1-Piece Floor Pan
Taillight Mounting Panel, Passenger Side
Taillight Mounting Panel, Driver Side

I'll have to clean up the Fenders and see if they'll need patching or not. I also need to look at the wheel wells.

I also have another rather dumb question, but where are the torque boxes on the car? I was told that I better check those before installing a new floor pan, but I've never done anything on a car having to do with them. I'd be grateful for any help.

Is there anything else I should be checking for? I want to make sure I do everything in the right order.

Thanks again.

 

I wish you the best. I have always thought the 69 and 70 Fastback were the nicest looking cars ever built, bar none.

 

torque boxes go in the triangular space between the rockers, the firewall, and the floor pans. basically right behind the fenders.

the mig welder you're buying, does it use shielding gas? you really don't want to use flux core with sheet metal.

as for order, the quarters are by far the hardest. do them last. i would approach it as:

1. brace the interior of the car. you can use cheap steel tubing and just weld it to the body in a few places. you want to make sure that the b pillars don't splay when you cut the floor pan out
2. cut and replace floor
3. quarters and tail light panel as one big project. if you're going to replace the entire quarter, leave about 1" of the original behind the door jamb (basically 1 tape width). that'll save you a ton of time as the aftermarket quarters don't fit very well and have a different edge profile from the originals. you'll also need a torch to remove the lead from the seam.

get some 1/8" clecos + the cleco tool. i buy mine from aircraft spruce - they're cheaper than through the auto houses. they're easier to use than sheet metal screws when you need to take things apart several times.

and either get spot weld cutters (solid style not the hole saw style) or drill bits to drill out your spot welds. there are a ton of them.

 

Thank you very much, this was very helpful.

Actually, the MIG Welder is suppose to be a non-gas one.

 

before you buy the welder, make sure it can be retrofitted with gas. a flux core welder (gasless) is nearly worthless for sheet metal.

to do the bracing, you can use conduit (grid off any coating first) or scrap metal if you have a scrap dealer locally. you just want to be sure that nothing shifts when you cut the floor out. mustangs don't have a frame and the floor is a major piece of the unit body.

 

What numbers are you refering to and what are the numbers?

 

I'll grab the papers and post the VIN number later.

Anyways, I took a few picture of areas that also bother me.



Is there anything else I'm missing back here? I know the taillight panel needs to be replaced and such, but there also seems to be a section cut off that should be there also. If needed, I can circle what I'm talking about, but I'm pretty sure you can notice it.

The next two things I noticed are near the roof.





Is this easy to fix?