Newbie with questions
#1
Newbie with questions
Through the course of a barn find, I now own a '69 Coupe with the 200 in it. I am putting a 302 (with GT40P heads) out of a '98 Explorer in it with a T5, which raises a few questions. I searched the FAQ, but I didnt find answers (mostly bad links).
I will keep it simple
1. What do I need to swap in the 5.0, aside from springs from a v8 and motor mounts
2. What do I need to install the T5? Will the opening in the floor line up? How do I adapt the Zbar? Is there another driveshaft that will fit in with no fabbing?
3. What rear do I have? It has a rear plate, so It's not 8 or 9inch. Will it hold up the the 5.0 (215hp/288tq stock with the EFI)
4. How hard is it to install an 8.8 out of a turbo Tbird? (it's 3.73 posi)
5. I am looking for about 300hp and streetable. What would be a good cam/intake/carb setup?
I do not have a lot of money or time to put into this (probably like 90% of people here), but it helps that It is in excellent shape. A-Title 110% stock. Inside it needs to be redone from a mouse calling it home, but that should come in a tick under $1K. On the outside it just needs the molding on the lower fender pass door, and the trim by the headlight replaced. The "T" on the trunk, and hopefully some compounding will make her look good enough for now.
Let the journey begin....
-Shane
I will keep it simple
1. What do I need to swap in the 5.0, aside from springs from a v8 and motor mounts
2. What do I need to install the T5? Will the opening in the floor line up? How do I adapt the Zbar? Is there another driveshaft that will fit in with no fabbing?
3. What rear do I have? It has a rear plate, so It's not 8 or 9inch. Will it hold up the the 5.0 (215hp/288tq stock with the EFI)
4. How hard is it to install an 8.8 out of a turbo Tbird? (it's 3.73 posi)
5. I am looking for about 300hp and streetable. What would be a good cam/intake/carb setup?
I do not have a lot of money or time to put into this (probably like 90% of people here), but it helps that It is in excellent shape. A-Title 110% stock. Inside it needs to be redone from a mouse calling it home, but that should come in a tick under $1K. On the outside it just needs the molding on the lower fender pass door, and the trim by the headlight replaced. The "T" on the trunk, and hopefully some compounding will make her look good enough for now.
Let the journey begin....
-Shane
#3
I will let someone with a complete list answer #1, but #2 I can shed a little light on by saying the T5 will fit and "might" be a tad longer making a shorter driveshaft necessary, but since you are mostly likely going with a different rearend, you'll have other changes.
You may have to cut the tunnel a little for the shifter.
You'll need a offset crossmember for the T5.
You can use the existing clutch linkage, but will need a fulcrum adapter for the late model bell housing. You may want to just go with a cable clutch setup now.
You may have to cut the tunnel a little for the shifter.
You'll need a offset crossmember for the T5.
You can use the existing clutch linkage, but will need a fulcrum adapter for the late model bell housing. You may want to just go with a cable clutch setup now.
#4
Sorry, I don't know enough about 69s to answer really well, but I will share what I think.
I am all but sure that the tranny and the rear will work but they will need to be babied, try sticking "ALL" 300 HP through them and you can say so long pretty quick.
I don't think the stock bell housing will work, and I doubt the clutch will.
You will most likely find the springs too soft on the rear axle, too soft and 40 years of use will make the rear end "wrap up" when you nail the throttle.
I think you can figure on replacing the whole drivetrain sooner rather than later, but this can be cheap enough with a good donor vehicle and/or the right used parts.
If the body is good and not rusty, I would seriously consider making the swap, if it needs much rust repair at all I would pass on the conversion.
I am all but sure that the tranny and the rear will work but they will need to be babied, try sticking "ALL" 300 HP through them and you can say so long pretty quick.
I don't think the stock bell housing will work, and I doubt the clutch will.
You will most likely find the springs too soft on the rear axle, too soft and 40 years of use will make the rear end "wrap up" when you nail the throttle.
I think you can figure on replacing the whole drivetrain sooner rather than later, but this can be cheap enough with a good donor vehicle and/or the right used parts.
If the body is good and not rusty, I would seriously consider making the swap, if it needs much rust repair at all I would pass on the conversion.
#5
The body is as perfect as can be, not a single spot of rust. There are a few spots that need a little attention before paint (minor dings), but other than that the car is 100% even underneath and in the usual problem areas. If someone had done something to keep mice out, the only thing the car would need, is either the 200 freed up, or replaced.
Is there anywhere to find a complete list of "This is what you need for a I6/toploader to 5.0/T5 conversion? I will definately be putting a new clutch in, and likely linkage, as from what I am reading the Zbar setup is hard on the left leg. Where is a good place to find that, and the proper crossmember?
What rear do I have? What car(s) have the correct width rear other than a lincoln Versailles?
This is ALL new to me. I come from the world of the 2.3 Turbo Thunderbirds. I am actually selling my super clean '85 to finance all of this.
Any help or advice offered is greatly appreciated.
Are there any other forums that would be a good source of brain picking?
Thanks,
-Shane
Is there anywhere to find a complete list of "This is what you need for a I6/toploader to 5.0/T5 conversion? I will definately be putting a new clutch in, and likely linkage, as from what I am reading the Zbar setup is hard on the left leg. Where is a good place to find that, and the proper crossmember?
What rear do I have? What car(s) have the correct width rear other than a lincoln Versailles?
This is ALL new to me. I come from the world of the 2.3 Turbo Thunderbirds. I am actually selling my super clean '85 to finance all of this.
Any help or advice offered is greatly appreciated.
Are there any other forums that would be a good source of brain picking?
Thanks,
-Shane
#6
The body is as perfect as can be, not a single spot of rust. There are a few spots that need a little attention before paint (minor dings), but other than that the car is 100% even underneath and in the usual problem areas. If someone had done something to keep mice out, the only thing the car would need, is either the 200 freed up, or replaced.
Is there anywhere to find a complete list of "This is what you need for a I6/toploader to 5.0/T5 conversion? I will definately be putting a new clutch in, and likely linkage, as from what I am reading the Zbar setup is hard on the left leg. Where is a good place to find that, and the proper crossmember?
What rear do I have? What car(s) have the correct width rear other than a lincoln Versailles?
This is ALL new to me. I come from the world of the 2.3 Turbo Thunderbirds. I am actually selling my super clean '85 to finance all of this.
Any help or advice offered is greatly appreciated.
Are there any other forums that would be a good source of brain picking?
Thanks,
-Shane
Is there anywhere to find a complete list of "This is what you need for a I6/toploader to 5.0/T5 conversion? I will definately be putting a new clutch in, and likely linkage, as from what I am reading the Zbar setup is hard on the left leg. Where is a good place to find that, and the proper crossmember?
What rear do I have? What car(s) have the correct width rear other than a lincoln Versailles?
This is ALL new to me. I come from the world of the 2.3 Turbo Thunderbirds. I am actually selling my super clean '85 to finance all of this.
Any help or advice offered is greatly appreciated.
Are there any other forums that would be a good source of brain picking?
Thanks,
-Shane
www.moderndriveline.com
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ct_catalog.htm
#7
#8
#9
sounds like a very ambitious project, I would like to suggest you split this post into at least four:
1. V8 Swap - From the April, 2009 issue of Mustang & Fords
By Wayne Cook
Photography by Wayne Cook
1964-1966 Mustang In-Line Six V8 Swap
Convert That Six-Cylinder Mustang To V-8 Status
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto...wap/index.html
2. T5 Swap
3. Rear Diff Swap
4. Performance Upgrade
As far as #1 I know that the 6 cylinder Mustangs had 4 lug wheels and the V8s had 5 lug, so are you looking at spindle / hub swaps? Does that mean now you need to swap out the rear end for sure for a 5 lug? I think you will also need to swap the steering linkage and maybe even upgrade the brakes. How's that for help, LOL I'm presenting you with more questions.
If it was me, I would punt on this 6 banger, maybe get it running and sell it and find yourself a V8 Mustang, they are a dime a dozen and since you don't need a drivetrain, you can find a shell for the price of what you can dump the 6 cylinder for.
That would take care of your suspension, diff, brakes, steering, etc.
1. V8 Swap - From the April, 2009 issue of Mustang & Fords
By Wayne Cook
Photography by Wayne Cook
1964-1966 Mustang In-Line Six V8 Swap
Convert That Six-Cylinder Mustang To V-8 Status
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto...wap/index.html
2. T5 Swap
3. Rear Diff Swap
4. Performance Upgrade
As far as #1 I know that the 6 cylinder Mustangs had 4 lug wheels and the V8s had 5 lug, so are you looking at spindle / hub swaps? Does that mean now you need to swap out the rear end for sure for a 5 lug? I think you will also need to swap the steering linkage and maybe even upgrade the brakes. How's that for help, LOL I'm presenting you with more questions.
If it was me, I would punt on this 6 banger, maybe get it running and sell it and find yourself a V8 Mustang, they are a dime a dozen and since you don't need a drivetrain, you can find a shell for the price of what you can dump the 6 cylinder for.
That would take care of your suspension, diff, brakes, steering, etc.
Last edited by Gregski; 07-13-2010 at 12:30 PM.
#10
The 8.8 from that t bird you would have to cut all the mounting tabs off and weld on spring perches not sure on the width of it tho.But a 8 inch from a 67-70 are cheap and will bolt right in watch for one for sell.