Rear end question
#1
Rear end question
Hey guys here's another rear end question. Even with researching I haven't seen a clean answer on this. I have local parts yard with a few explorer and ranger rear ends the ranger is 8.8 and 3.55 gears. Seams to be the set up I want due to having a 289 with cam running 245/15's on the rear. Question is should I just have the 8 inch rebuilt or is the swap something a local shop can do. Metal fab is definitely not my thing.
My rear is making a significant rubbing/humming and I'm pretty sure it needs to be rebuilt or replaced soon so I'm looking for what will be less expensive. I'm looking at the swap for the value of the disk brakes. Let me know what you all think the car is a weekend cruiser no track time, but want some kick to it off the light. Thanks.
My rear is making a significant rubbing/humming and I'm pretty sure it needs to be rebuilt or replaced soon so I'm looking for what will be less expensive. I'm looking at the swap for the value of the disk brakes. Let me know what you all think the car is a weekend cruiser no track time, but want some kick to it off the light. Thanks.
#2
The problem with the Explorer/Ranger swap is that the differential is off-center. It supposedly still fits, but it moves the pinion carrier off the snubber and may or may not run into clearance issues.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I have read about the off set and most say they have not had issues with it. My car doesn't sit low, I have standard ht leafs and 610 springs with1in drop in front from grab a track. My main thing I guess is to rebuild the 8 or swap for 8.8? Not sure with labor etc if I need it or if it's worth the added benefit of rear disks . Cause if I rebuild I will swap the gears anyway.
#4
Well i did the explorer rear end in my 66. it was a little different then yours though. I was able to cut it down so the pumpkin is centered. It works great and i lover the braking.
However it was a lot of work. there a couple of issues you will have to deal with. two of them being that you will need to keep the U bolts from the donor rear end and the bottom plates that mount the rear to the leaf springs will need to be turned and drilled because of the difference in thicknesses of the rear axel tubes. It is no big deal but it all adds to the swap.
I found that the the trac loc and the disc brakes are huge. i really like the car a lot more now.
But you can buy a 8" 3rd member with trac loc for about $800 with shipping. Price will be about the same with whichever way you decide to go.
However it was a lot of work. there a couple of issues you will have to deal with. two of them being that you will need to keep the U bolts from the donor rear end and the bottom plates that mount the rear to the leaf springs will need to be turned and drilled because of the difference in thicknesses of the rear axel tubes. It is no big deal but it all adds to the swap.
I found that the the trac loc and the disc brakes are huge. i really like the car a lot more now.
But you can buy a 8" 3rd member with trac loc for about $800 with shipping. Price will be about the same with whichever way you decide to go.
#5
Thanks Billy,
Seems like more than just a swap out. What I have read confirms what you are saying, that it is probably above my level of tools and knowledge. I will most likely bring it in to a shop and have them rebuild the current rear end with a 3.25 trac loc. I really was hoping for an easy solution to getting disks in the rear as well. Oh well. Thanks. If anyone else has any suggestions. please let me know.
Seems like more than just a swap out. What I have read confirms what you are saying, that it is probably above my level of tools and knowledge. I will most likely bring it in to a shop and have them rebuild the current rear end with a 3.25 trac loc. I really was hoping for an easy solution to getting disks in the rear as well. Oh well. Thanks. If anyone else has any suggestions. please let me know.
#6
I swapped out my 8" for a 9" I found on CL, then bought a 9" pumpkin built to my requested specs- 3.50:1 tracloc. I found the diff builder on fleabay, lost the bid but emailed him and he built it for me for a set price, he was close enough for me to drop off the old 8" to him and the conventional 9" pumpkin for credit. The 9" pumpkins are cheaper than 8". I stayed with rear drums and just put better shoes on, unless you're open tracking the car the drums in rear are more than sufficient with good shoes. The front disc are way more important than rear in a DD.
After credit for the old parts, getting the 9" on CL and buying the 9" 3rd member I am into my 9" for ~$500, the 8" 3rd member only was ~$800 as mentioned.
Search fleabay for 8" 3rd members, a rebuilder may be close to you, I did the pumpkin swap out myself as he had already set it all to specs.
Jon
After credit for the old parts, getting the 9" on CL and buying the 9" 3rd member I am into my 9" for ~$500, the 8" 3rd member only was ~$800 as mentioned.
Search fleabay for 8" 3rd members, a rebuilder may be close to you, I did the pumpkin swap out myself as he had already set it all to specs.
Jon
#7
WHere can you find this??? I have a 3.55 8' open rear. I saw a Auburn trac-lok unit for $479 and it's another $700 for the labor to put it in. If you know a better way to go, please let me know!
#8
rebuild the 8"... i debated this same scenerio a few months ago and decided. if i went 9 inch i would have to change my driveshaft axles along with buying new r and p gears. The 8 inch will hold up to 400rwhp all day! I had my 2:79 open 8in. rebuilt to 3:55 trac lock, the tottal ran me somewhere around 1200 including brake work, labor, parts...
BeastMachine67- that is the best way to go!!! 700 for labor seems a bit much tho but prolly fair
BeastMachine67- that is the best way to go!!! 700 for labor seems a bit much tho but prolly fair
#9
rebuild the 8"... i debated this same scenerio a few months ago and decided. if i went 9 inch i would have to change my driveshaft axles along with buying new r and p gears. The 8 inch will hold up to 400rwhp all day! I had my 2:79 open 8in. rebuilt to 3:55 trac lock, the tottal ran me somewhere around 1200 including brake work, labor, parts...
BeastMachine67- that is the best way to go!!! 700 for labor seems a bit much tho but prolly fair
BeastMachine67- that is the best way to go!!! 700 for labor seems a bit much tho but prolly fair
#10
$650
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...ts_Accessories
$800
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...ts_Accessories
$800
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...ts_Accessories
Those are a few I found, I just searched for "ford 8" trac" to narrow it down, you may have luck with 8 in., etc. I called the seller after I lost to a higher bid and he agreed to build me one at the price I had bid last for the 9" so I didn't have to keep bidding every week. A little patience and persistance go a long way, contact a few sellers and see what their buy it now price is. You might also get lucky one week and find a cheaper one.
These should come preset for clearances and preload so it's a drop in. If you can do brake work or pull an engine you can swap out your 3rd member. I used the shop manual for my car and did it. Disconnect rear ujoint, put car on stands, pop both axles loose (rented puller makes it easy), remove old unit (it's heavy & messy, use a jack), clean out old fluid, install new gasket and 3rd ember, torque to spec and reinstall axles/ujoint. You could call around at shops and get comparitive quotes on a rebuild to tracloc vs. a pull and replace with your supplied 3rd member.
Jon