Crate Engine decision
Hello all,
If you read my "Vibration Issues" thread, you will know that I just found out that my engine is pretty much toast because the crank moves in and out of the engine block a good 1/4 + of an inch. So…. It’s time to make some decisions.
I want to have a reliable setup and something that I can go for long distance trips. Some general info about my 66 is that it has a complete rebuilt suspension (GT spec stuff), Auburn pro differential (3.90 gears), and drums on all 4. It’s basically my weekend fun car. Another thing to note is that I am getting married in May and the budget needs to be kept under control since I am paying for my wedding.
The choices at hand are:
Ford Racing 306 with 340 hp: $3,200 from CJ pony
- What I would need to buy extra: 50oz balancer and probably a 600 cfm carb (currently running a 500 cfm)
Yearone 351w with 400hp: $3,900 (http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...hid=E13YA82828)
- New carburetor and I think will need a new distributor. Will a 351w fit under the hood of a 66?
Issues at hand….. The stock T-5 tranny that I have. Would it hold the power of either of these engines? I don’t plan on taking to the drag strip.
Any thoughts/opinions?
If you read my "Vibration Issues" thread, you will know that I just found out that my engine is pretty much toast because the crank moves in and out of the engine block a good 1/4 + of an inch. So…. It’s time to make some decisions.
I want to have a reliable setup and something that I can go for long distance trips. Some general info about my 66 is that it has a complete rebuilt suspension (GT spec stuff), Auburn pro differential (3.90 gears), and drums on all 4. It’s basically my weekend fun car. Another thing to note is that I am getting married in May and the budget needs to be kept under control since I am paying for my wedding.
The choices at hand are:
Ford Racing 306 with 340 hp: $3,200 from CJ pony
- What I would need to buy extra: 50oz balancer and probably a 600 cfm carb (currently running a 500 cfm)
Yearone 351w with 400hp: $3,900 (http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...hid=E13YA82828)
- New carburetor and I think will need a new distributor. Will a 351w fit under the hood of a 66?
Issues at hand….. The stock T-5 tranny that I have. Would it hold the power of either of these engines? I don’t plan on taking to the drag strip.
Any thoughts/opinions?
if you're thinking of a 351, why wouldnt you just get this:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=M6007J58
and if you want a 4bbl then swap out the intakes
http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=M6007J58
and if you want a 4bbl then swap out the intakes
351 will fit you just need to be careful with the intake and headers. We thought about it, in fact I have a 351 sitting in pieces waiting to go out for machine work....then we changed our minds. I picked up a 1990 302HO short block plus cam for $300 (this one one of the years that had forged pistons etc). After honing and balancing I'll have $500 into it. Going with a set of Trick Flow heads, Weiand intake and 650 holley. Should make just around 400hp and be a lot lighter then the 351.
Crate motors just aren't any fun, build your own
Crate motors just aren't any fun, build your own
Last edited by mr_velocity; Sep 3, 2010 at 08:31 PM.
I think the ford racing 306 will be a much more quality engine, I'm thinking you will find cheap chinese heads, chinese intake, and a lot of cheap components on the year one engine, I think the price reflects that. You could spend the extra 600.00 and get the heads on the 306 ported and be real close to 400hp.
The cj pony 351w is a great deal but low on hp its just a stocker, frankly I dont think they are available anymore, a year ago I wanted one for one of my plumbing vans and couldn't find one anywhere.
A good built quality crate 351w with aluminum heads (usa made) should cost a minimum of 5k on the low side for a long block.
The cj pony 351w is a great deal but low on hp its just a stocker, frankly I dont think they are available anymore, a year ago I wanted one for one of my plumbing vans and couldn't find one anywhere.
A good built quality crate 351w with aluminum heads (usa made) should cost a minimum of 5k on the low side for a long block.
Last edited by htwheelz67; Sep 3, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
I would just buy a donor car or SUV with under 100k and go with it if money were an issue...heck I may go that route and pull it down for a cheap hone-n-go, carbon scrape and new gaskets. I think the 5.0 HO motor with a roller cam is the way myself.
Unless you are willing to buy more stuff to make the 351 work, stick with the 302 based engine.
A 351 based engine will work in a 66, we did that when we put a 408 in Jim's 66, but you will need to invest in a set of "swap headers" to get the exhaust in, you will need some accessory mounts to get the goodies on the front of the engine, and you will need an intake if the crate does not include one.
Speaking of the intake, we have some some experience with hood clearance there. An RPM Air Gap will fit when used with a low base air cleaner an a carb with no choke, (A Mighty Demon in this instance), but when using a taller carb there are three choices,
1. go through the hood with a scoop etc.
2. No air cleaner
3. Shorter intake
The car is a BEAST, ( I thrashed it a couple days ago) but there are trade offs.
Also, you have a t-5 and want to keep it, I think it is more prudent to stay with the 302.
Chances are that with a new crank you could rebuild what you have, or buy a short block, some Dart Iron Eagle heads and go at it.
<Concerning the 351, I forgot to mention that you will likely need to invest in some Ron Morris motor mounts to get the exhaust clearance you are going to need.
Plan on spending an extra $1,000 for parts and "incidentals" getting the 351 in over the 302, assuming of course that you don't need (or want) to change out the "swap stuff" anyway.>
A 351 based engine will work in a 66, we did that when we put a 408 in Jim's 66, but you will need to invest in a set of "swap headers" to get the exhaust in, you will need some accessory mounts to get the goodies on the front of the engine, and you will need an intake if the crate does not include one.
Speaking of the intake, we have some some experience with hood clearance there. An RPM Air Gap will fit when used with a low base air cleaner an a carb with no choke, (A Mighty Demon in this instance), but when using a taller carb there are three choices,
1. go through the hood with a scoop etc.
2. No air cleaner
3. Shorter intake
The car is a BEAST, ( I thrashed it a couple days ago) but there are trade offs.
Also, you have a t-5 and want to keep it, I think it is more prudent to stay with the 302.
Chances are that with a new crank you could rebuild what you have, or buy a short block, some Dart Iron Eagle heads and go at it.
<Concerning the 351, I forgot to mention that you will likely need to invest in some Ron Morris motor mounts to get the exhaust clearance you are going to need.
Plan on spending an extra $1,000 for parts and "incidentals" getting the 351 in over the 302, assuming of course that you don't need (or want) to change out the "swap stuff" anyway.>
Last edited by JMD; Sep 4, 2010 at 11:36 AM.
Thank for all the replies!
To add a little bit more information for whatever combo I decide to go with, I would consider trying to use some of the parts currently on my engine for the new engine. That being said I would use the headers that I currently have, and if need be I could use my water pump and distributors too.
I would love to build my own engine, but all routes that I look at cost more than what I could by a crate engine that comes with a warranty. The warranty is key too. I would splurge, but again, I am paying for my wedding ; otherwise a DOHC cobra motor with T-56 would be going in.
Some research on these two engine that I have done:
302 engine from CJs: (Basically set up for a foxbody
- I would have to change the oil pan and oil pump.
- The balancer is a four bolt, so I would either have to buy new pullies since what I have is a 3 bolt.
- water pump comes out on the driver side of the block and timing is done on the left, so I would have to buy a new radiator or change everything to match up with my current radiator (3core). but then again I wouldn’t be able to time the care using the balancer.
- Phase cam needs to go on the cam since the engine is setup to run an efi system and not a mechanical fuel pump.
- I would need to buy a 50oz balancer.
- New carb (600 cfm edelbrock)
351w from year one.
- I wouldn’t have to change the oil pan or pump.
- Don’t need to put the phaser cam in for the mechanical fuel pump.
- Don’t need to buy a flywheel because it comes with one.
- All I would have to buy is:
o Carb (700 CFM)
o New radiator so I don’t have to change everything over like above
o Possibly a new distributor
- Probably not the best quality heads, but I can always change those out down the road. But it does get 400 hp
Such a hard decision!
To add a little bit more information for whatever combo I decide to go with, I would consider trying to use some of the parts currently on my engine for the new engine. That being said I would use the headers that I currently have, and if need be I could use my water pump and distributors too.
I would love to build my own engine, but all routes that I look at cost more than what I could by a crate engine that comes with a warranty. The warranty is key too. I would splurge, but again, I am paying for my wedding ; otherwise a DOHC cobra motor with T-56 would be going in.
Some research on these two engine that I have done:
302 engine from CJs: (Basically set up for a foxbody
- I would have to change the oil pan and oil pump.
- The balancer is a four bolt, so I would either have to buy new pullies since what I have is a 3 bolt.
- water pump comes out on the driver side of the block and timing is done on the left, so I would have to buy a new radiator or change everything to match up with my current radiator (3core). but then again I wouldn’t be able to time the care using the balancer.
- Phase cam needs to go on the cam since the engine is setup to run an efi system and not a mechanical fuel pump.
- I would need to buy a 50oz balancer.
- New carb (600 cfm edelbrock)
351w from year one.
- I wouldn’t have to change the oil pan or pump.
- Don’t need to put the phaser cam in for the mechanical fuel pump.
- Don’t need to buy a flywheel because it comes with one.
- All I would have to buy is:
o Carb (700 CFM)
o New radiator so I don’t have to change everything over like above
o Possibly a new distributor
- Probably not the best quality heads, but I can always change those out down the road. But it does get 400 hp
Such a hard decision!


