Ahh, drag car, that's why. I was thinking it was for a street car. A car run at the strip benefits from an adjustable set because you can move the power curve around a bit to compensate for track conditions and weather.

 

i'm 100% certain i won't be removing the fan, water pump, pulleys, damper, timing cover at the track just to slightly advance or retard the cam for weather conditions. not to mention the risk of PTV clearance.

i'll probably pay more attention to the air pressure in the Goodyear Polyglas tires while at the dragstrip

did you check the link for the timing set? i don't think it's what you think it is.

 

Here is another vote for mechanical fuel pumps. I run the Edelbrock one.

 

You know, I used some 450 psi braided fuel hose on my 39, I wish I had used aluminum hard line like Valley Firearms used on his car, (after I saw his pics, wow) but I backed away because I was having a hard time converting from a/n to inverted flare.

Anyway, I advise using the aluminum line because it is super easy to bend and flare using a cheap bender and flare kit, it looks really nice, is easy to find, it is cheap, and it works great.

3/8 line will work fine to at least 450HP.

Other than that, steel will work fine too, for some reason I think copper is not routinely used for fuel line, I want to say there is a danger (or a rumor of a danger) of it "work hardening" and breaking due to vibration.

Oh yea, and no way I would run a rubber fuel line from one end of the car to the other.

 

Those adjustable sets are best used with modified timing covers and electric water pumps etc. A lot of race cars have setups that let you adjust cam timing in 10 minutes. If you had Ed grind you the cam to work the way you want when installed straight up, then there's no need for a timing set like that. You can find a bit more power by tweaking cam timing, but it would really require you to make track passes and then change it, more passes, changes etc to find the best setup for you. Is that what you really want to do?

 

it doesn't make sense to me at all. if somehow he read between the lines, assumed i was actually building a drag motor and would make track time adjustments, then why would he design a hydraulic roller, with a measly duration in the 240's and valve lifts in the 620's designed for a motor run on pump gas for a restored musclecar? very odd.

i'm going to let this topic go. sorry to the op, i feel like i've ruined your thread.

 

Sometimes he and others will recommend things like that, because there's always some guy that comes along and installs the cam without degreeing it and gets something wrong, starts it up and trashes the valvetrain, then tries to blame him for the cam he made. If he advises them to use adjustable setups and degree them cam, have the tuner do it etc, then it protects him from the claims that the few bad apples may make. That way he can say that he advised the customer to degree the cam and make adjustments as necessary, and if they didn't do it then it's on the customer.

I'm going to install my cam with the set dot to dot(which I know is correct on the set I'm using). But I'm still going to degree the cam and still going to clay the pistons just to be safe. There's always people that do it wrong and then try to blame the shop/vendor/installer etc.

 

In the boat we run both mechanical and electric fuel pumps. They're plumbed in parallel so if one fails we don't lean out those bug cubic inch motors. The only pumps I've had fail in 20 years have been the electric pumps. Stick with the mechanical pumps and never look back.